NZ Horse Talk Notice Board FAQ

Last major update- moved server Dec 2007, updated links to reflect this Dec.23 2007.
 

If your horse is in any distress, call the vet immediately. Otherwise, as with all information pertaining to your horse, read the pros, read the cons, research well and choose wisely. An eye injury is always an emergency, as is any horse in shock. Get the Vet immediately in both cases.

If you see something on here which is no longer valid, please contact me so I can change it. My e-mail address is at the bottom of the page.

This page doesn’t work in Firefox. I know, I know, I use Firefox too.

If you would like to save a copy of this FAQ to read later on your own PC, choose "save as" under your browser’s menu. This is usually located under "File". Then, to read it later, open your web browser and choose "open" under the "File" menu and then select the HorsetalkFAQ.html file that you saved earlier. You need not be connected to the Internet to read the page if you have saved it on your own PC. Your browser may give you a security notice that says active content from this page is blocked when opening this FAQ as a saved file on your own computer. The only active content on this page is a java script which allows the How to Feed page to open as a separate browser page if you choose to click on it. It is safe to allow active content from this page. You are welcome to save a personal copy, or even give it to others, and you are more than welcome to add a link to the FAQ from your own web page, however, please DO NOT put a copy of the FAQ on your own web page. Thanks!

Table of Contents

Click on the question to arrive at the answer.

Horse Talk Notice Board Essentials

 

Equine Health

Equine Gear

Financial/Legal Questions

Feeding Questions (for vitamins and minerals, see the useful links section.)

This section includes extensive charts on nutrient content of various feed types, tables for feeding different sized horses and more. For beginners and advanced riders interested in optimum care. Please note that you should explore the links carefully especially the How to Feed link in this section, as the tables and charts are included as separate pages due to the detailed content. There are also links to feed fallacy pages here.

Behavior or Training Questions

Everything Else

Useful Links to More Information

How can I find out more about a horse from its brands or name?
On many breeds, including TB's and appaloosas, the left shoulder will have the Breeder/vet's initials/symbol. On the right shoulder there will be two numbers displayed vertically. The bottom number will have the last digit of the year the horse was born i.e. 5 could be 1975, 1985, 1995 etc. The top number represents the foal registered to the breeder/vet for that year. Example: 14 over 5 mean the 14th foal to be registered for the breeder of 1985. Quarter horses will have a Q on their rump. Paints also have brands but if they are solid colored, they should have a PH brand on the right hand side of the rump near the tail.

If you contact the Thoroughbred Breeders’ Association and fax or mail them a drawing of the brands they will be able to tell you whom the brand on the left shoulder belongs to and give you the brand owner's name and address. This works for non-TB brands too, including mixed breed horses because most (but not all) brands are registered with the TB Breeder's Association. You can contact the NZ Thoroughbred Breeders Association by phone, fax or email:
Ph: (64 9) 525 2428
Fax: (64 9) 525 2434
Email: Janine Wallace: nztbamembership@nzthoroughbred.co.nz

Here is the NZ Thoroughbred Breeder's Association web site. http://www.nzthoroughbred.co.nz. Look under HorseID.

More specific information about your TB (other than who the brand belongs to) is listed under the dam so unless you either know the horses registered name or the dam they won't be able to help much. TB's born after 1988 changed from being fire branded to freeze branded.

You can look up your horse on the on-line studbook at http://www.nzracing.co.nz/

You can try contacting the equestrian federation, as they may be able to give you information. They might have his registered name and his achievements, past owners, etc in their records. The website is www.equestrian.org.nz

One board member traced her thoroughbred through NZ Thoroughbred racing Studbook Section. A lady called Bridgette Williams was able to provide who bred and name etc off brands supplied. Her e-mail is bridgette.williams@nzracing.co.nz. You could also go to www.arion.co.nz,

Hi if anyone is interesting in tracing pedigrees then a visit to this site is a must. http://www.dmtc.com/pedigree/allbreed/. It is relatively new but more horses are being entered all the time.

If you are looking for an appaloosa's details, email the secretary of the New Zealand Appaloosa Association. I was amazed when she looked up my (FAQ compiler's) horse during a casual phone call in less time than it took me to introduce myself. She must keep the stud book next to the phone. :) You can find them at http://www.appaloosaassn.co.nz/
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EHE what is it?
EHE stands for Equine Horse Elixir. It's a mix of garlic, manuka honey and cider vinegar. Prevents cough or a cold, is used as an immune booster with the garlic and honey, and the cider vinegar is a good tonic for anything with a bit of arthritis. Kemeu Grain in West Auckland and Saddlery warehouse both stock it.
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The Nigerian Horse Buying Scam
This is a very common scam involving a scammer asking to buy your horse, sight unseen. Usually they tell you the horse will be picked up by a shipper. The scam involves mailing you a bank draft (fake) that is for an existing bank. Your bank will honor it until it is sent to the foreign bank whereupon you will be charged for costs. The scammer sends the draft for more than your asking price then asks you to "refund" the extra amount minus a bit for taking up your time. Don't fall for it. Here is a link for further information. http://www.bustedupcowgirl.com/scampage.html
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GMC, MSM what is it?
Warren's feeds makes a supplement called GMC (Garlic, Manuka honey, and Cider vinegar) which I believe is pretty much the same as EHE if people are interested. I hadn't found EHE in our local saddlery but they had GMC, I think they're both fairly similar in price. MSM is pretty interesting stuff - it's a natural sulfur compound and claims to help a huge range of problems. Go to http://www.a1nurtitionals.com/_msm_facts.html  or http://www.horsenutrition.org/ for a biased FAQ on both.
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What can I do for Mud Fever?
Make sure it isn't sunburn first, which can look similar. Mud fever seems to be more common on white (where there is pink skin underneath as this is more sensitive than other colored skin). Mud fever scabs are white and generally flaky or crumbly; except for when they get in deep they can be quite hard to get off.

Mud fever is a type of bacteria which causes scabs and if left untreated can cause swelling and lameness it can spread up the legs if left untreated. It's usually caused by the bacteria getting into cracks in the skin; some horses seem to be more susceptible than others are.

The best thing to do is to remove all mud from their legs using cold water. Brushing wet mud can rub it in and make it worse; hot water opens the pores and makes it easier for the bacteria to get in. Then scrub (careful not to damage the skin, damage is how the mud fever got there in the first place!) with an anti bacterial shampoo or soapy vetadine solution to remove the scabs. You can use Hibiscrub, which is what vets use and a nailbrush to get the scabs off, or you can use Triocil, which is an antibacterial shampoo available from the vets, or pet supply stores.

(FAQ compilers note: After removing mud with cold water, I used triocil in a spray bottle mixed with water so that I could spray it on as a foamy solution. I let the scabs soften, took them off, rewashed with the Triocil spray, and then dried the leg thoroughly. I did this over the period of a week.

This did not work as well for me as Daktozin did. Daktozin is available in a large tube from the chemist for $10. It comes as a thick cream, which is a combination of 15% Zinc oxide and 2.5 mg/g mionazole nitrate. Daktozin is for nappy rash and fungal infections. You clean the area with cold water, dry it, and then apply Daktozin thickly. Repeat as needed to keep the cream on and the area clean. Don't wash it off and re-pick scabs unless you think dirt has gotten in there. As an added benefit, the zinc prevents sun from doing any damage to the pink skin as it is healing. Also, the cream is so thick it doesn't come off in a wet paddock and it prevents any further abrasion from sand. )

You need to do this every day. The reason for that is that the bacteria breed under the scabs so you need to get them off. When you've cleaned the legs, they should be dried and kept as dry as possible, or apply your mud fever ointment if you are using one (depending on the manufactures instructions) You could put a barrier cream on to the legs once the mud fever has healed up to protect them from re-infection, you could also put it on unaffected legs to prevent infection. There's little point on putting barrier cream on while the mud fever is causing sores, since to get rid of mud fever you need to expose it to the air. (Note we are talking about barrier cream here, not the mud fever ointment you may be using!) There is a good one that's for nappy rash and has zinc in it, if you can get it. It's called sudocrem. Good luck - it does go with persistence but be careful in future, as it does tend to come back.

Johnson or Milton's baby bottle sterilizer tablets are cheap, won't stain your horse's white socks/stockings, and it works. You put 1 Milton's tablet to 1 litre of water and apply it daily for a couple weeks. The other thing about it is that it's a watery liquid and not a cream, thereby being absorbed and then letting the scabs dry out, as opposed to a cream which, as anyone who has had thrush will tell you, keeps the skin moist and will take longer to heal! Once the scabs have fallen off, treatment with Equifix (emu oil cream) will aid in the hair growing back and no scars will be left. This applies to rainscald as well.

Further tips from board members: Riding in saltwater really helps (also softens the scabs so you can get them off more easily). You need to get them off so the skin underneath can dry out. You can also trim off excess hair around her socks so they dry off more quickly if they do get wet. (FAQ compilers note: I've read exactly the opposite. The feathers on a horse are there to protect the skin from mud and sweat getting next to the skin, which causes an abrasion which allows the bacterial/fungal infection to enter the skin (there is no proof that the infection is carried in soil, it is actually present on anything from the horse to gear to fence posts). In my case, my horse never got mud fever, even in pretty wet muddy constant conditions, until I cut off her feathers to "tidy" her up one spring. She got mud fever at the beginning of the next winter, when the feathers still had not had a chance to grow back. That's just my experience)

Also, since the bacteria can travel on brushes, halters, etc. it is a good idea not to share gear or brushes between horses, and to disinfect your brushes etc. regularly with a couple table spoons of bleach to a gallon of water. Check the information on the sites listed below for exact amounts of bleach. Have heard milkeeze (used for cows' udders) is also good for softening scabs to get them off. You could try any good antibacterial wash. You can also use filtabak once her legs are clean and dry to protect them. Dew on the grass is enough to set the mud fever off again, doesn't need to be mud. Ideally stabling overnight until the dew was gone from the paddock each day would be good, but not many of us can do that! Best thing is just to keep on top of it though; keep getting those scabs off and keeping legs as clean and dry as possible. If you leave it, it just gets worse and worse and can be pretty serious with lameness.

Note that mud fever is anaerobic. That means it needs to have no oxygen to really thrive. By getting the scabs off and exposing it to the air, you are killing it. The triocil wash also helps kill it. The more attention you give it (i.e. daily) the faster it will clear up.

Some people are concerned with knowing which scabs to pick off, since some of them are healing scabs. That is a tough one, especially since oozing mud fever scabs can feel hard and crusty, especially if dirt is mixed up with the oozing stuff which has then hardened. It's a judgment call, but you can soften them up as described above (in salt water, cold water, or a triocil/cold water combination), and scrub with a *soft* human-type nailbrush and any that come off should be ok. Likewise, after they are softened up, you could give them a rub with a towel and those that come off are the ones you want off. Re-apply the triocil or whatever anti-bacterial you are using once the scabs come off, and then dry the legs. You want the anti-bacterial to get at the oozing mud fever wound.

The skin from the ones picked off will be pink and oozing and raw looking. That's why it hurts when you take the scabs off; the mud fever really is pretty nasty underneath. Like an on-going blister that can't be gotten rid of because the "scab" in this case makes it fester, not heal.

Here is an article on mud fever/rain scald: Mud Fever. Please make sure you check out the links to articles on rain scald too, because there is a lot of relevant information in them.
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Seedy Toe, what is it, how do I get rid of it?
Here is a link to some information: white line disease.
Seedy toe (aka white line disease, though this is not a very good name as it is not a disease) is caused by bacteria that invade the white line area of the hoof and digest away the inner layers. The space becomes filled with a dark, crumby substance as the bacteria digest the white line material. It becomes black in color and stinks. It grows in the white line area, that is between the hard outer layer of the hoof and the soft yellow area on the bottom. (That's the part of the white line area you can see, it actually extends upwards through the hoof). The seedy toe can only get in after some compromise to the hoof, (crack, injury etc).

Long toes can make horses prone to seedy toe (especially if the horse is also overweight) as the stresses on the laminae may result in partial tearing which allows the bacteria to get in (laminitis is the really severe condition where the laminae separate - a number of factors may contribute to laminitis including the horses being overweight) Also, if small stone etc had been left under the shoe (due to bad farriery) they can work their way between the layers of the hoof and allow the bacteria to get in. Generally either metalex or formalin seems to be the most commonly used treatments in NZ to kill the seedy toe fungus. (Metalex and formalin are antibacterial/fungal.) Also colloidal silver should be good for seedy toe, as it's an antibacterial agent. (Scrape out any mucky stuff, generally black and soft/crumbly and stinky) with a sharp, clean nail or similar, from the affected area, then pour on metalex or formalin, and/or pack the area. (A 2.5% solution of iodine solution poured into the infected area with the hoof held up so it can trickle in for one- two minutes can help prevent the bacteria getting any further. You need to do this every one or two days until the separated area grows out. You can then pack the area with cotton wool soaked in the solution) This needs to be done regularly though, one Farrier suggested twice a week, you may try every 2 days, guess it depends on the soil conditions etc too and whether or not you pack the hole.

Another option your Farrier may take with seedy toe is to cut it out. This can be done with no harm; it will just make your horses hooves look ratty until the horn grows down and can be rasped back into a nice regular shape again.

For more information on this topic, see the Farrier links at the bottom of this FAQ.
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Why we don't feed on floats
Horses can choke on feed (hay etc.) when fed in a float.
You won't have a problem in the paddock as they can get their heads down to cough sneeze, etc. The problem with floating/trucking is that they can't clear all the dust and muck out cause they can't get their heads down or stretch their neck. Horses traveling for long periods have been known to get respiratory infections due to been unable to clear gunk out. If you are worried about them having nothing to eat for long distances, feed and water them when you arrive at your destination. A horse is fine even for a five hour trip without feed.
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Colloidal Silver
Mud fever, rain scald, sunburn, wounds- Colloidal Silver is a natural healer that will assist in all of these areas. It is a natural antibiotic and anti-inflammatory, and works by killing the pathogen within 6 minutes of contact with regular use. It tastes like a metal spoon (it can be used internally and externally for health and well being). E-mail live@ihug.co.nz for information, costs, etc.

Now here are two views on it from different Horse Talk members. You make up your own mind. As with all information pertaining to your horse, read the pros, read the cons, research well and choose wisely.

Pro

To the Colloidal Silver queries: I have sent E-Mail regarding Colloidal Silver to the manufacturer of the product I promote, here is her response: "Isn't it sad when fear and ignorance cloud perception. Let me clear the haze by first of all stating that Colloidal Silver, properly produced, using continuous charge through highly distilled water, 'The Low Voltage Electrolysis Method' produces a suspension containing positively charged pure silver particles, i.e. a colloid. This suspension contains particles as small as .001-.005 microns; any excess silver particles entering the body are simply eliminated via the normal channels. Initially the body takes up the silver storing it in the Kupher cells of the liver; these are one of the body's defense mechanisms against infection. They work by engulfing the infectious organisms and in doing so they come into intimate contact with the stored silver particles which then have the ability to disable the oxygen-metabolizing enzyme that single celled bacteria, fungi and viruses use to reproduce themselves. The disease causing pathogen then suffocates and dies. This is the reason that Colloidal silver is making a name for itself as a general immune enhancer and is also showing very positive results on eye and ear infections, burns, skin afflictions and open wounds where it also assists in the prevention of 'proud flesh'. Argyria has NEVER been known to develop from the use of properly made colloidal silver. Results are testimony to its usefulness and as resistant strains of bugs are becoming more apparent it is heartening to know there are folk who care enough to put time, money and efforts toward research of complementary therapies to assist us towards health and healing. I notice Colloidal Silver on the shelves of local veterinary practices these days as many are open minded about natural methods of healing and are taking the results seriously of those products which positively affect response. There may come a day when your horse or indeed your grandmother can benefit from the research into alternative healing whether it be Manuka honey, Colloidal Silver or the laying on of hands with pure intent. Let us all work towards educating each other rather than dare to make bold inaccurate assumptions based on ignorance of the facts. Sue Fowler - ASTEK PRODUCTS As mentioned previously - if you have ANY queries regarding Colloidal Silver, please e-mail live@ihug.co.nz and your query will be passed on to Sue Fowler at Astek Products/Nosebag Enterprises Ltd. Thanks.

Con

The FDA has concluded that the risk of using silver products exceeds any unsubstantiated benefit. Colloidal silver is a suspension of submicroscopic metallic silver particles in a colloidal base. Long-term use of silver preparations can lead to argyria, a condition in which silver salts deposit in the skin, eyes, and internal organs, and the skin turns ashen-gray. The official drug guidebooks (United States Pharmacopoeia and National Formulary) have not listed colloidal silver products since 1975. In 1995, an herbal distributor named Leslie Taylor tested nine commonly marketed colloidal silver products available at health-food stores and concluded: Two of the products were contaminated with microorganisms. The amount of silver suspended in solution varied from product to product and would gradually decrease over time. Only five products actually showed antibacterial activity in a laboratory test. To perform the test, she prepared a culture plate with Staphylococcus aureas bacteria, which can cause infections in humans. She then placed a drop from each product on the plate and used disks of two common antibiotics as controls. After eight hours of incubation, she found that bacterial growth had been inhibited around the antibiotics and four of the products. Of course, the fact that a product inhibits bacteria in a laboratory culture doesn't mean it is effective (or safe) in the human body. In fact, products that kill bacteria in the laboratory would be more likely to cause argyria because they contain more silver ions that are free to deposit in the user's skin. FDA laboratory studies have found that the amount of silver in some product samples has varied from 15.2% to 124% of the amount listed on the product labels. The amount of silver required to produce argyria is unknown. Make your own mind up. Would you put it on an open wound? Not me!
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Rain scald, what is it and what to do about it
Basically rain scald and mud fever are very similar in cause and treatment. Washing in triocil works. Triocil is a shampoo available from the vet. You may also have more success with rain scald if you daily brush out the lumps of hair caused by the wetting of the horses hair. Don't over brush a horse living out without a rug though as it depletes natural oils and the ability of the coat to withstand weather.

One thing that has been mentioned on the board is that copper deficiency can make horses more susceptible to rain scald/mud fever and the same suggestions for feeding copper supplements apply for rain scald as mud fever. According to Massey University course notes on Equine Nutrition (Page 24, Topic Four, Introduction to Equine Nutrition and Health, Module Two, 2001) "The only horses that might require copper and zinc are mares in late gestation, and young horses...Normal diets provide adequate copper and zinc for adult horses...and on Page 20 of topic one- "Copper Sulphate is often used in the garden (bluestone). It should never be added to a horses feed as it is very irritant and can cause ulceration of the mouth and throat." (Note from the FAQ compiler: My personal feeling is that unless you know for sure your horse is suffering from copper deficiency through a blood test given by your vet, I would not supplement it in feed. Copper toxicity is uncommon in the horse, but other species are very sensitive to high levels. See the vitamins and minerals link for more information about copper.)

Here's one good site with general information on rain scald (aka rain rot) www.equusite.com Click on health care on the left menu. There is lots of other good information on this site as well.
This one's on "Fighting those infamous fungi" - ringworm, girth itch and rain scald... Fungi
And this one on mud fever/rain scald... Mud Fever
This looks like another good site, this part has skin things such as rain scald.
www.thoroughbredtimes.com-Skin and under their horse health page there seems to be heaps of other interesting topics which may be of interest .
And more on rain rot... rainrot See also the NZ vet link in the links section for most of the ailments an NZ horse can suffer.

Here is a good article; the original link is at the bottom of it.
Rain Rot in Horses, written by: Ride 'Da Kur

What is rain rot?

Rain rot is one of the most common skin infections seen in horses. It is also referred to as "rain scald" or "streptothricosis". The organism that causes rain rot appears and multiplies in warm, damp conditions where high temperature and high humidity are present. This condition is not life threatening, so don't worry. However, while the horse has rain rot, any equipment that may rub and irritate the infected skin (such as saddles and leg wraps) should be eliminated.

What causes rain rot?

The organism dermatophilus congolensis causes rain rot. dermatophilus congolensis is not a fungus. It is an actinomycetes, which behaves like both bacteria and fungi. Most people believe that the organism is present in soil; however, this has not been proven. The organism is carried on the horse, which has it in his skin. A horse that has this organism in his skin may or may not be affected.

What does rain rot look like?

Rain rot can appear as large crust-like scabs or small 1/4 inch matted tufts of hair. There are usually dozens of tiny scabs that have embedded hair and can be easily scraped off. Underneath the scabs, the skin is usually (but not always) pink with puss when the scabs are first removed, then it becomes gray and dry as it heals. It is usually hard to differentiate rain rot from other similar skin conditions, so if you are unsure, call your veterinarian.

In the early stages, you will be able to feel small lumps on the horses' skin or hair by running your hand over your horse's coat. Click here for pictures of rain rot

In what region is rain rot most common?

Rain rot can be present in any horse around the world, but is most common in South Florida. In South Florida, the increased humidity and high temperatures combine with the prolonged rainfall to create the perfect environment for the organism to live.

What conditions are usually present?

1. The animal has to be infected with the organism. A horse can become infected by shared saddle blankets, leg wraps and brushes with other infected horses.

2. There has to be extreme moisture present. Horses with thick coats are more likely to keep the moisture close to their skin.

3. The skin has to be damaged (by a cut or scrape), for the organism to be able to enter the epidermis.

4. Also, poor stable management, damp stalls, poor ventilation and infected barns.

Will rain rot go away on its own?

It sometimes does. What I mean is that some horses will naturally get rid of the organism as they shed out their winter hair coat. However, it is not advisable to let the condition persist, you should not wait to see if it will go away...start treating it now, before it gets any worse!

Does rain rot lead to any other conditions?

Since the organism needs a warm, moist environment, it is likely that a secondary bacterial infection may become present. The most common secondary bacterial infections known are staphylococcus (staph), and streptococcus (strep). This is why it is very important to treat rain rot immediately, since any secondary bacterial infection may be even more resistant and difficult to treat.

How does rain rot spread?

The organism, dermatophilus congolensis, can be spread through sharing of equipment between horses. This includes saddle pads, blankets, leg wraps, brushes, halters, etc. It is extremely difficult to prevent the spread of rain rot, since a horse can pass it to another horse by simply rubbing its skin on any object that the other horse may touch. The best prevention for rain rot is to use a disinfectant on any equipment shared between horses after each use.

When treating this condition, you must keep all equipment used on the horse disinfected, to be able to keep the organism from coming back. A good solution is 2 tablespoons to 1 gallon of water of Chlorox. Do not use this solution on your horse, only on the equipment!

Where does rain rot appear?

Usually on the horse's back and rump, along with the back of the fetlock and front of the cannon bone. It may also appear on the tips of the horse's ears and around the eyes and muzzle. When rain rot appears on the lower limbs (behind the fetlock), it is most commonly referred to as "dew poisoning".

Are the scabs painful to the horse?

No, the scabs do not hurt the horse. The scabs have not been associated with an "itchy" feeling either. However, it may be painful while you are removing the scabs, so be very gentle and take your time. Many horses will be resistant to this.

How is rain rot treated?

Dermatophilus congolensis grows better with a lack of oxygen. Since the organism doesn't like oxygen, you'll have to eliminate the heavy hair coat (if your horse's hair is long and thick), and remove any scabs that hold the organism to the horse's skin.

It is not a good idea to use ointments on rain rot, since they hold moisture to the skin (and moisture needs to be removed for the condition to cease).

The best treatment is to wash the horse with antimicrobial and antibacterial shampoos and rinses. These medications help to kill the dermatophilus congolensis organism. If Betadine, Phenol or Nolvasan is used, you should continue applying them once a day for one week.

THE TREATMENT:

1. Keep the horse in a dry, clean area that is very well ventilated. Give the horse protection against biting insects. Separate the horse from any others that also have rain rot.

2. Use an antimicrobial shampoo that lathers well. Vigorously lather the horse, let sit for 10 minutes, then rinse. Be sure to follow with a conditioner that works well. Continue this for daily for 1 week.

3. Remove all scabs that are present. This is usually painful for the horse, so be gentle! The best way I have seen to remove these scabs is to temporarily moisten them (so they become soft and easy to remove). Be sure to dry the horse immediately after scab removal.

4. The organism in the horse's skin must be killed. This can be done by using any of the products listed below.

SEVERE CASES ONLY: for severe cases, antibiotics may be used. These include potassium penicillin, procaine penicillin G, sodium ampicillin, streptomycin or gentamycin. Immune-boosting drugs may also be needed for the horse's immune system to fight off the organism and heal. If your horse has a severe case of rain rot, make an appointment with your veterinarian and discuss the antibiotics listed above.

FROM: http://www.equusite.com click on health care on the left then "rain rot". There are lots of good links here too.

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What is Stringhalt?
Stringhalt of the kind discussed below is reportedly not found in NZ. NZ stringhalt is more likely caused by nerve damage through injury.

According to "Health Care and Common Problems of Horses" ISBN 0958933979, (available from the farm store in Thames) it is characterized by goose stepping with the hind legs and can be severe enough that the fetlock will hit the belly and no forward motion occurs. Also (so it says here) the gait may improve after the horse is walked a bit.

Causes include plant toxin that damage nerves from plants such as dandelion and flatweed. This can also cause roaring from damage to the larynx. Horses with nervy dispositions seem more commonly affected.

Under treatments it says in early cases most horses recover within 3-4 weeks. Some passive flexion of the hind limbs up and down 6-10 times a day while the horse is standing may aid recovery, removal from pasture, feed on good hay, and keep horse quiet. It says some may take months or years to regain normal hind limb function.

Says supplement with B complex vitamins may help nerves regenerate, medications such as phenytoin sodium and baclofen have been effective relieving symptoms in some horses.

Recovery is going to depend on how much bad feed it ate.
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Milk Ease
The product for Cows udders is called "Milk Ease". Its brand is patented. It comes in a yellow container with a white lid and you can get it from Reid Farmers or Wrightsons. It’s cheap and lasts for ages - is for sunburn, dry skin, cuts, scabs, healing open wounds/cuts also once the wound has settled, some applied twice a day will leave you with no scars.
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Keeping your horse warm/Do I need to cover my horse?
Here in NZ most of us keep our horses outside, at pasture all year long.

A winter cover in the winter months is recommended. It will help keep your horse warm, and keep her from getting repeatedly wet, thereby preventing rain scald. It will also cost you less in feed, since in winter a cover allows the horse to utilize her feed energy in ways apart from keeping warm, and a cover is the equivalent to a full hard feed a day.

Many people cover their horses all year around, with a light weight summer cover, an unlined, water proof canvas fall cover and a lined, waterproof winter cover. It saves some grooming since the horse stays cleaner, especially in the winter when there is a lot of rain and mud. A good winter canvas cover costs about $250.00 (NZ as of 2005, prices have remained steady at least since 2001) but lasts many years. There are now some excellent waterproof, tough synthetic covers on the market; they tend to be a bit pricier but have other advantages such as lower weight. You can ask on the Board for a discussion of which cover to buy, most people are happy to share their thoughts. You can also get them second hand at some shops in NZ. The Horse Shop in Cambridge is one. Rug design changes frequently so ask on the board after a particular one.

On the other hand, horses are intended by nature to go uncovered. If you leave your horse unclipped she should be fine outside without a cover. In the U.S. Canada and Britain, many horses go all year without a cover, even in snow. It's important that if you do this though, the horse have adequate feed and shelter. By shelter, a three sided, roofed shed big enough for the horse to voluntarily enter and stay in, or at least a growth of trees that gives good cover on three sides and on top. Also, don't over groom an outdoor winter coat, because the coat's oils provide protection from the weather. If you are going to clip your horse and remove their natural warm covering then they need to be covered by you.

Your horse will let you know if she needs a cover. If she is loosing condition in the winter and increased feed is not helping, a cover will most likely help. If your horse is keeping weight on then most likely they don't need a cover.

Some other tests you can do to see if she is warm are if she's not shivering she's not cold i.e. she is staying within her thermo neutral zone. They aren't really meant to feel toasty warm under their rugs - because they have a much greater body thickness than humans, dogs and cats. If they are hot on the outside surface and can't loose heat then their internal organs are probably too hot. As they do quite well even in snow as long as they have food. The main thing is to keep them dry and feed roughage (unlike us they get most of their heat from digesting hay etc in the hindgut). Another way that we measure warmth is if the base of their ear is warm, even if the tip is cold, they are warm. The other place to check is if you put your hand in the hollow where the front leg joins the body and the girth goes (under the elbow) and it's warm, they are also warm enough!

If you start using a winter cover, you must continue to do so until the end of the season. When it is cold enough most days that you are wearing a jersey, and you need a fire or heater on at night, that's about the time to start using the winter cover. Fall is a hard time to know what to do because of the weather variation. You can either take off the lined winter cover during the fine days and replace it at night, or putting a thinly lined canvas cover on to provide some protection without too much warmth is a good compromise. Then you can put the full, heavier lined, winter cover on when it is more consistently cold and wet.

If you already have a cover on your horse, are you sure the cover you have on your pony is keeping her dry? You're better off with no winter cover than a winter cover that is not waterproof. A horse in a wet cover is going to get very cold very quickly and will stay cold as they won't be able to dry out/warm up (Imagine you being in wet clothes for ages and how cold you get. You don't warm up till you've had a bath/shower and put warm dry clothes on!) Horses are the same. Either re-waterproof your pony's cover (get some Rainex from your local tack or hardware store) or see if you can get a new one as this could well be your problem, if not then perhaps a nice under rug would be the answer for extra warmth. Canvas covers without an inner lining of jute, wool or felt can not be waterproofed and are not suitable as a winter cover unless you have an undercover to place underneath.

Feeding hay at night is a good way to keep your hose warm too; hay is a great 'warmer' to feed on a cold night as the digestion process in the gut warms the horse from the inside out. Hay is best for this because it has the highest fiber and that is what produces the heat in the gut.

There are a number of shops in NZ that sell second hand covers at very good prices and many local shops make new ones at decent prices too. Most canvas covers cost roughly the same so it's more a matter of personal choice, service, and good fit for the horse as to whom you buy from. It's a competitive market and most makers will probably humor you if you have special requirements. Cheap rugs both canvas and synthetic of good quality can also be found at end of season sales. Call around.

I (FAQ compiler) haven't actually tried her covers but Julie Barclay of Mable Jean Covers is said to make top quality (Regentex) canvas covers, sizes from minis to clydes. She also makes covers (synthetic or canvas) for foals, donkeys, alpaca, goats, dogs, etc. as well as doonas for minis. If customers have special requirements she can probably accommodate these. She lives in Warkworth and works from home. Phone No 09 422 5144. She does mail orders and travels to Falloons in Dairy Flat once a week to pickup and deliver covers. Julie will travel to do cover fits. Julie also makes show rugs, (She did the show rugs for the Horse of the Year 2001) saddle blankets, floating and shipping boots etc.
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On what is expected when leasing a horse
Whoever leases a pony or horse from an owner should expect to pay for shoeing, worming, teeth, vet bills, and medication. Expecting to pay normal 'running' costs is an accepted part of a free lease. If you are the one leasing a pony, always go and check the place he's being taken to, if only to let them know that you're in control of his situation at all times and have the right to change it if you feel it's necessary. There are a few good lease agreements around; it would be a good idea to have a written agreement on both sides so everyone knows exactly what is expected. www.horsetalk.co.nz has examples of lease agreements. Links to them are from here: http://www.horsetalk.co.nz/forms-index.shtml It pays both of you to get it in writing. Also included there are grazing agreements, bills of sale, boarding agreements, stallion service agreements and other useful downloadable stuff.
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How do I fatten up my horse?
Make sure you consider the other factors that can influence a horse’s weight, other than feed. The amount or quality of edible grass, regular worming, teeth, amount of work being done, companionship - some horses need to be on their own and other can't cope- all can affect their weight.

Everyone agrees Sugarbeet is great for  weight gain but be careful about soaking it for too long in summer as it goes off (you can tell by the smell). It is also nonheating. Oil is good for fattening, you start with a tablespoon or so and can gradually increase to around a half cup per day, up to two cups but some horses won't eat feed too saturated in oil. Also, in some scientific tests excess oil was not seen as beneficial. Any kind of people eatable oil is fine. Soya is cheep and available at supermarkets. It adds lots of energy but is non-heating and also good for coats! Brewers yeast will aid in digestion (and therefore increase the efficiency of energy absorption from the food) - it sorts out the gut bacteria (fills it with the good guys you want in there!) and it's really cheap and can get from bulk food stores like Bin Inn (feed 1 tablespoon per day). Lucerne hay is a good food source as it's higher in protein than other types of hay, but there is some debate about whether it's heating (I didn't find it was, but some people think it might be). Sulphur and garlic also help horses 'do well' and are natural worm deterrents.

Sugarbeet is great, and is an awesome fattener that is both tasty and cheap. Just change the bucket over and refill at each feed - that way it soaks minimum 22 hours. Over winter if I go to feeding 2 x a day you can have a morning and an afternoon bucket clearly marked - but be careful of doing with hot water as you strip all the vitamins out. Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for soaking time. Undersoaked Sugarbeet can be harmful to your horse according to some people. On a horse magazine site, there is an article about debunking feed myths that says this information is not true. Check with your manufacturer. Better safe than sorry! Here is a good place for more info on feed myths and sugar beet... http://www.riding-room.co.nz/Articles.asp?ID=7 and for more on feed fallacies: http://www.eques.com.au/general/april/fallacies.htm
http://www.petalia.com.au/Templates/StoryTemplate_Process.cfm?specie=Horses&story_no=1283 is a good feed fallacies page, i.e. on feeding kelp, horses self medicating and more.

About quantity:
You need to be feeding it at least 4x a week, and don't forget to feed out hay as well. I can't remember how much I was told to feed (by the Dunstan's nutritionist) in weight but it worked out to an ice cream container (dry). The nutritionist at Dunstans is great, you can e-mail him and give him all the relevant info (e.g. age of horse, how much work he's doing, what you're grazing is like etc) and he will recommend a diet for your horse.

Since it comes up so often, here is a note on Pollard, taken from an excellent article on horse feeds from the June 2001 issue of Horse Trader (NZ and Australia.)

On Pollard it had this to say: Pollard is the remains of the inner kernel of wheat left after flour milling. It is low in fiber, protein and calcium, high in phosphorous and can cause digestive upset if not fed damp with chaff. Pollard is often used for fattening horses, but rice pollard and grains will do this just as effectively and with less potential problems.

On Rice Pollard it said: high in fat and energy, a useful feed for putting on condition and improving coat condition...much more valuable than wheat pollard, but care should be taken to ensure the rice pollard isn't rancid. It can become rancid due to prolonged storage, heat and moisture. It shouldn't be fed if it has a different smell that may indicate rancidity.

You can check out this and other feed issues at www.ker.com. Other good pages for feed-related information are http://members.tripod.com/cavanaughc/id95.htm http://www.riding-room.co.nz/Articles.asp?ID=7 and http://www.riding-room.co.nz/Articles.asp?ID=10

Also, here is good advice from a board member:
I know it may seem a bit drastic, but if you horse if being fed daily and is on sugar beet and his condition is still not good I would definitely get a vet to look at him, including a rectal examination. I was having that problem this time last year and the saga continued throughout the winter, despite my best efforts to get the horse fat by using heaps of different feeds and supplements, with hindsight I should have got the vet. It could be a number of things e.g. bacterial infection, stomach ulcers. Thoroughbreds, especially ex-racers digestive systems get a thrashing in their early years with hard feed and from their teens onwards this begins to catch up with them.

Yet more good advice from another poster, this one backed up by a book:
I had some time today and found a book called "Feeding and Nutrition of Horses" by John Kohnke B.V.Sc., R.D.A. He had a section on putting weight on a thin horse, which I found really interesting and could help you. Initially steps to correct the 3 most common causes of poor condition or failure to thrive - heavy worm burdens or external parasites, teeth problems and poor quality feed - should be considered before increasing the energy content by giving a supplement of concentrates in addition to good quality hay. Hint: Re-worm the horse about 3 weeks after initial worm-out to remove any immature small redworms released from gut reservoirs following 1st worming. Hint: A hard feed such as rolled barley, dampened pollard or a high energy "cool" extruded feed at the rate of 500g to 750g/100kg body weight mixed with an equal volume of chaff, in addition to the normal maintenance ration of hay or pasture for an adult lightly worked horse, will help achieve a steady weight gain without making the horse playful or difficult. A supplement of vitamins and trace minerals, such as Feramo-H with chromium, mixed into the feed daily will help ensure vitality, muscle development, and coat condition. And general health as weight is gained. Light exercise only. Does the horse have any vices? I.e. weaving, pacing or wind sucking? These often prevent a horse from gaining weight because they are doing above instead of eating. Racehorses often lose weight dramatically after being turned out to pasture and being withdrawn from the high energy diet, which they were on. Also weight loss can occur dramatically if place with a group of horses who boss them away from food. A gradual increase in energy and protein levels is recommended to avoid digestive upset and metabolic problems. This should be complemented by light exercise to help develop muscle bulk and tone. Small feeds often 3 - 4 daily. Restrict grazing on lush grass. Always provide hay before turning on to pasture. Try to find out what the horse was being fed so you can use similar ingredients then reduce over 2 - 3 weeks. Going from stable and hard feed to pasture - the unstretched gut capacity is unable to efficiently store or digest larger volumes of roughage consumed to meet energy needs. It may take 6 months or longer for a horse to adapt to a hay or pasture based diet. Whew! Any help? Hope so. Also, my boss (stock food business) says that full fat soybean meal would be good. No need to feed any other oils. Has about 40% protein so not too heating. I've had a terribly skinny horse before - not tb but a fence walker. I think he gave himself an ulcer. I found that the plainer the feed, the better. Even cut out molasses. Feramo-H was good though. I think it is important not to feed heating feeds because you want a calm horse both to ride and to conserve his fat! Good luck.
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Notes on Nutrition and Equine Feed Supplement ingredients
On nutrition: www.thehorse.com/nutrition. You have to register, which is free, but some of the articles on this site are subscription only, which you have to pay for.
You could also call Dunstan's free phone: 0800 438 678, they also have a feed nationalist that you can talk to if you're considering their products.
Another great place to look up feed information is http://members.tripod.com/cavanaughc lots of other good stuff there too. On feed supplement ingredients: animalscience/nutrition/glossary.html
See also the e-mail address and phone number to Hira Labs which is under the Vitamins, Minerals and Herbal Cures link at the links section at the bottom of this page.
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Remedies for healing without scarring
Emu oil is one of the more popular board remedies to heal cuts without scarring. Healing Honey is available at Health food shops. Must be the one that has a UMF rating not just ordinary honey. You could also e-mail hiralabs@xtra.co.nz and ask Everdien about the chamomile cream - it has helped hair grow back on at least one board member's horses with amazing results
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Feeds that won't heat your horse
See also fattening up your horse for information on oil.
Try adding 1/2 cup of wheat germ, it's not meant to fill them up or fatten them it's meant to help calm the nerves. If your SB is not long off the track he/she is probably still thinking like one too. S of the SB's I've had to work with in the past can take a good few months to unwind from racing mentality. Concentrate on using more bulk feeds (hay, chaff, bran - pollard and broll can also be quite good for these guys too) than concentrate like barley and oats. If you buy pellets check with the supplier what their content is, as there are pellets for ponies, hacks, racehorse etc available.

You could try mitavite Economix. Economix is good for those racing types.

One board member feeds her TB - 1/2 ice cream container Sugarbeet (before it is soaked quantity) 1 and 1/2 ice cream container of Copra meal - 2 of oaten chaff and if hunting or in hard work either extruded barley or Dunstan CoolFeed Extra. If anyone is feeding Dunstan Coolfeed, try the extra - you get more for your money and they love it. You could also call Dunstan's free phone: 0800 438 678, they also have a feed nutrionist that you can talk to if you're considering their products.

Another typically excellent post from Hira Labs:
Successful feeding involves a balance between input and output. If you feed more than is required then the horse will do one or both of the following. It will either put on weight with out blowing or it will gain condition and still fizz. Concentrates without sufficient roughage tends to produce an excess of energy stored as glycogen which is conveniently available for the flight response if required and if you are at a show this tends to be nervous behavior. Generally increasing roughage, feeding 'cooler' grains like boiled barley, linseed meal and adding of vegetable oil to feed will help with weight gain. Ensure that good quality meadow hay is given. The additional daily feeding of a mix of rosehip granules and chamomile flowers will help with the digestive process, calm the horse and provide flavonoids. An herbal mix to stimulate liver function will improve the uptake of minerals, nutrients and general food absorption. For more information you may like to e-mail us at hiralabs@xtra.co.nz More on adding oils:
Could anyone tell me what sort of oil additive to put in my horses feed and how much, can you get cod liver oil supplement from anywhere. My old boy is feeling a little bit stiff, and I have been told that I should be feeding oil anyway! Thanks.

I feed 1 Tb Cod liver oil a week and up to 3 cups normal oil (the cheapest you can buy, usually Soya) a day. But introduce gradually. I put mine in with the sugarbeet water and they don't seem to mind it. Start with 100mls and increase slowly.

Cod liver Oil has the Omega 3 oils needed for joint health. A couple of excellent plant based oils are Borage Oil (used extensively in animal feeds overseas), Evening Primrose oil (around 2.5 to 5ml daily for maintenance) and cold pressed Flax seed oil (very oxidative so needs to be stored in complete darkness and without oxygen and needs to be filled with an inert gas to remove oxygen). A great oil but tricky to keep just right. Give around a tablespoon daily. Incidentally cold pressed canola oil is now regarded good for joints after a lot of bad press these last few years. Hope your horses are well
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How fast do hooves grow?
Anywhere from 6 months to a year. Most hooves grow at a rate of about 1cm in 6 weeks (think how much your Farrier trims off every time he shoes your horse), but it can vary according to nutrition levels, time of year (they grow less in the winter and faster in spring) and general health. Younger animals' hooves grow faster than older ones.
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What are disposable diapers used for?
Many people on the board use them as bandages. They are disposable, water proof, sanitary, cheap and handy. You can apply whatever poultices, etc. are needed next to the wound, put them on and re-enforce with either book binding or electricians tape. Put one in your trekking first aid kit.
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Sarcoids and Cancer
Check out this link:
www.tamaris.org.uk/equigen/sarcoid.htm
Sarcoids are not, but are similar to benign and cancerous growths. While they do not spread from the original site, they are known to re-grow aggressively at the original site after surgical removal. Sarcoids can be injected with a BCG antigen, which makes the horses immune system seek to reject and destroy the sarcoid. Cytotoxic cream or the insertion of radioactive rods into the sarcoid will kill the cells. (Information from Your Horse, Jan-Feb 2001.) Many people on horse-chat have home remedies they say have worked. One of these is Manuka honey (the one with the healing agent in it) another is Marmite, both applied on the sarcoid.

Sarcoids are not harmful to the horse unless they are rubbed by tack and therefore cause an open sore, which can become sore and possibly infected.

Other information from Horse Talk reader is as follows: If the sarcoid is quite large ask the vet about flurocil injections. This is a human tumor cure. I have had success with as podopyllin mixture but only on smallish sarcoids. I have had cryosurgery done on another also successfully. You can try homoeopathic Thuja. You need to give three drops on the tongue 3 times daily until gone. (Note that another horse chat user has also successfully used a tincture of Thuja applied directly to the sarcoid. Remember to strictly follow your vets or manufacturers suggestions on how, when and where to apply any medicine) Once they go you must stop giving it as they can recur. Also the horse needs an immune booster as warts and sarcoids occur when the immune system is low.

Another post on warts and sarcoids:

I have also heard that garlic juice can be used on warts and sarcoids. I wasn't aware that straight calendula is a remedy for warts etc but I guess it makes sense in that calendula is anti viral and fungal. Calendula will help with regrowth of hair. I have mentioned some time ago a plant that is traditionally used for warts and has been used on sarcoids. Apply the yellow juice from the stem twice daily. I know of a well-known dog (Jacko the resident dog from the magazine Tearaway) now no longer who had a skin cancer on his nose, which was completely healed using this juice. The plant is called. Greater Celandine. Looks like a grey leafed buttercup. Probably the best thing to do is consult your vet. Also, have a look at Sarcoid Gel from www.aromansi.co.nz.

Here is yet another post from the helpful Everdien
Sarcoids are a form of non-malignant tumor originating from a virus. Bear in mind your mare has this condition because her immune system is not as good as it could be. One of the least expensive additives would be garlic and a good start. It is a sulphur containing compound which protects against cancer and allyl sulphides which enhances carcinogen excretion (detox).Secondly I would recommend that she is given more than 20 grams of vitamin C daily(horses manufacture their own vitamin C but not sufficient to act therapeutically). Also if you have access to spray-free oranges and lemons remove the zests from them, dry them and add a tablespoon daily to feed. This is a good source of pectins which helps stop (metastasis) spread of new sarcoids and cancers. Homeopathic thuja and causticum 60 have been found to be helpful too. Yarrow has been used to some success on sarcoids and contains: Essential oils, azulene, borneol, camphor, cineole, terpinole, euginole, thujone, lactones, flavonoids, tannins, coumarins, saponins, achilleine, salicylic acid. Thujone is one of the active ingredients in yarrow may be used to treat warts and sarcoids. It has anti-angiogenesis properties. (Angiogenesis is the point at which a cancerous mass forms blood vessels to reduce oxygen and nutrients) This will starve the sarcoid of nutrients. Using some or all of the above we have seen horses completely recover from sarcoids. Like everything results are variable with some working, some not and others taking a long time to disappear. The BCG injections may well be worth a try and then you could readdress her immune system later. Everdien's email can be found in the useful links section under where to buy herbal remedies.
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Sunburn
Full-face mesh nets are available for horses with pink eyes, nose. Half-meshes are available for just eyes. Nose guards for just noses. My own horse uses a full face one for his pink nose/mouth and pink eyes. The mesh is see through. It's easy to put on. It costs less than sun block. I take it off around 5 pm.

You can apply any sun block with zinc. Since zinc needs to be frequently re-applied, as it rubs off easily, a better method is a piece of flannel attached to the noseband of the halter. You can just cut slots in the flannel and thread it on. Cheaper and works as well as any store-bought one. You could also experiment with the material. If not to scratchy, an old feed bag would soak up less water than flannel. Since leaving a halter on is asking for accidents, instead of a buckle, replace the buckle with Velcro. Then if the horse gets in difficulty, it will come off, but at the same time; it won't come off casually. Velcro works a treat at keeping neck covers on too.
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What's good to keep flies off? Ticks, how to get rid of them etc.
On Flies:
Try various fly repellents available from your farm store or vets, apply as directed. I'll put more remedies up as they become available on the board.

On Ticks:
What we commonly see lately are what is known as seed ticks, they are one of the larval instars of the adult tick and look the same but are VERY tiny. Often you will only see the lumps and can't see the tick itself because it's so small. They have appeared already this season, even though it's not summer yet. The warmer weather has obviously set them off. They are a small round insect with six legs at the top of the body. You won't see the head as it tends to be thoroughly embedded in the horse. The body is soft and can expand to allow filling (with blood) it actually has little folds around the edges. The seed ticks are often a light brown or yellow and are about the size of a pinhead. Adult ticks are a darker brown and start from small sized but can expand to thumbnail size. Often you won't see the seed ticks (unless you know exactly what to look for) until you treat with ripcord, asuntol or the like and the ticks detach from the skin and lay on the fur top. I pretty much assume that any numerous lumps on face, neck etc are tick caused.

To get rid of ticks you can use asuntol, ripcord etc. they are insecticidal rinses. Either rinse the whole horse or just the affected areas, do remember the sheath / inguinal area (mares too) they get them on their udders. You can spray the area too. Don't wash it off. Mix it to manufacturers instructions. Usually lasts 14 days (asuntol) to 4 weeks. Frontline for dogs (spray) is also licensed for ticks but would be expensive for a whole horse, good for target areas though.

Other posts as follows:

You can use Permoxin (I think that is how you spell it). You get it from the vet, it costs about $20, but it will last all summer if you use it as a spray. You mix it with water and spray it all over their bodies. It can also be used as a wash. I used it last summer from when the ticks first came out and I didn't have to worry about it again as I sprayed my horse once a week. I have also heard that spray show shine can help to.

My vet in Kumeu used a product called betacol (spelling?) it is not a licensed horse tick product but I graze with cattle and have found it fantastic. Asuntol and my boy do not go - it irritates his skin and he goes spastic - no matter how weak I mix it. With betacol you use between 20 - 40ml in an empty syringe and apply it about 3cm away from either side of their spine - it lasts for approx 4-6 weeks. I have used it all last summer with no problems. I had to start about 3 weeks ago, as the little beasties were so thick on his face it looked like he had bad acne! Good luck.

Ticks can cause a type of scab on the lower legs, as well as other areas they latch onto. Tick scabs are normally a crusty yellow scab that looks more like a scab from a weepy sore. My horse is kept with cattle, so ticks hit him early. The 1st signs I notice are the crusty type of scabs on the legs and lumps on the face.

I use Tea Tree Oil. It is a Tick Repellent. Normally at the 1st dose of ticks I shampoo my horse with eucalyptus woolwash. Working the scabs off and Rinse off the whole horse with the hose. Then put about 15 drops of Tea Tree Oil in a bucket of water and soak the horse using a saturated towel. This year I strapped the horse off then repeated and let him dry off in the sun. Everyday using a Spraymaker 1ltr plant sprayer I stray my horses legs with a water and tea tree oil (about 6 drops, as long as I can smell the tea tree when spraying). With his head I spray a brush and apply it that way. Once a week I spray my horse all over. I started using T-Tree oil when I was pregnant with good results, but it has to be used at least every 2-3 days.

My horse reacts to even tiny ticks almost immediately by raised glands in this area. I treat with Asuntol straight away even if I cannot see them. I have made up a natural spray that works extremely well if you are nervous about continued use of poisons. Use a good coverage spray bottle. Fill 3/4 with warm water then a good measure of baby oil, which promotes sticking power. Drop in around 20 drops of lavender, eucalyptus oil and about five of tea tree essential oils. Not too much tea tree but it is a natural antiseptic. Spray 2-3 times a week or more and this works wonders to keep away ticks midges and other biting things. My horse is a strung TB and does not mind being sprayed with this in the middle of the paddock. Even tries to nibble the bottle as the smell is not unpleasant.

Hi, over the weekend I bought some Ripcord to treat my horse for ticks. Can someone tell me what the best way to apply this is? (I.e. how much, is it safe to use all over the horse, how often do you need to reapply it etc).

Use either using a spray bottle or sponge on. Use gloves you. I find a spray bottle good for getting those in between places (like in mares’ udders) where baby ticks love to hide.

I was wondering if anyone knew if cattle pour on's for ectoparasites (lice, ticks etc) were suitable for horses as well? I hope everyone had an enjoyable weekend riding and playing with your horses.

I have asked the vet whether Cattle Pour on can be used and they said absolute No! No! A horse's metabolism is quite different than cattle. It can result in poisoning. Unfortunately the only thing seems to be Asuntol which is a painful process and horses hate it.
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Mares in Heat, how long does it last, what triggers it, etc.
Being in season (estrus) can make a mare irritable, aggressive, over sensitive or flighty. Or it may not seem to affect her at all. Like with people, reactions vary hugely. Some mares show very overt signs of being in season such as winking of the vulva and high tail carriage, more peeing than usual, sometimes in a slightly different color, and usually for a shorter duration. Some mares show next to no sign.

"Estrus occurs regularly every 17 to 26 days in spring and summer and lasts between a few hours to seven days." quoted from Your Horse Magazine, Feb-March 2001, page 76. If you mark down on your Calendar every time your horse goes into heat for a few months, you can soon learn to predict when she'll be back in season.

Information from Horse and Rider July 2000 page 33 states that on Day One the mare comes into season, Day 5 the mare ovulates, Day 6 the mare goes off season, Day 6-21 mare in not in season (dioestrus)-progesterone suppresses the changes seen from day 1-5. From day 1-5, mare in season (estrus) - estrogen causes behavior changes e.g. more ticklish/affectionate/irritable etc; sticky discharge from vulva, which may lengthen and redden; more frequent staling. (End quote)

Regumate is sometimes used on marish behavior because it is synthetic progesterone and suppresses hormonal and behavioral changes seen with estrus.
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Getting a horse used to Hobbles
The first thing is to make sure your horse is properly trained to tie up and stand quietly. If your horse can't just stand still and not throw a tantrum, then you will be taking too big a risk to move on to the next step without this training.

The next thing to do is to be sure that the horse has been properly trained to allow his legs and feet to be handled (this includes picking them up and putting them down). If the horse can't do that, again you can expect fireworks.

You will need a round-yard to work in as that is the safest environment, giving you and the horse enough room to move around relatively safely. For the first stage the horse would probably be better off free from restraint, as this will have a positive effect on reducing his fear level.

The way I used to do this (even though I don't really approve of the things, I always think it is best to introduce a horse to as many different experiences and situations he may find himself in as possible, so he can deal with it) is to undo the chain in the middle, so you have 2 separate "cuffs" that are not joined. You allow the horse to give the thing a good eyeball and a sniff, and you then place it on the near foreleg (note only *one* of the items, not both!) and *immediately* remove it before the horse even realizes what has happened, and be really nice to him for doing so well. Repeat this a few times, gradually increasing the amount of time you leave it on for, and only taking it off when the horse is calm. The horse might run around a bit or shake his leg, but because there is no chain attached to the cuff, it would be almost impossible for him to hurt himself (but not impossible for him to hurt you so be careful).

You repeat this for all 4 legs, and you repeat the whole thing over several days (it is best to be very patient, to limit the training session to only a short time - you can have more than one session per day if you allow a sufficient rest in between - and repeat the lessons a few times so that the horse regards it all as "old hat" and there is less chance of a flare-up).

Finally you are ready for the next step which is to actually put on the chain in the middle and put both cuffs on. For this, the horse should not be loose in the round-yard, but you should still conduct this training in that environment because there is some comfort in familiarity. You will need to find someone who is competent enough to hold onto the horse by a lead rope. I would not recommend tying the horse because it is safer if the horse is not tied up, but not really safe for the horse to be turned loose, as he would be in more danger of hurting himself. It is very important to be aware that the assistant must be very confident and knowledgeable about horses and should know how to keep safe and keep the horse safe.

Some people might say at this point to do something like lead the horse forward or something so he will know the straps are there, but I don't think that is a good idea since it is the opposite of your goal which is to get him to stand quietly in the straps. So you need to do something like lead another horse past the yard or whatever which will stimulate most horses to attempt to move toward the object of desire. As soon as the horse has the assistant senses the impulse in the horse to move forward, he or she should discourage this with the lead rope, and soothe the horse as much as possible with voice and manner.

It is important to remove the straps and allow the horse to move forward as soon as practical after he has relaxed, because this is his reward (if you do what I want, then I will give you what you want). After a few repeated temptations and longer delays between "tension and release" phases, the horse should pretty much have the idea.
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Braiding and Plating How To
Check out this link, with diagrams: plaiting.html
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How to Format Tutorial Plus Posting Etiquette
Please note that if HTML formatting is overused, then Chris and Wendy, our Horse Talk Webmasters, will put a filter on the site so that HTML formatting will not be possible. This is because they are concerned with the download size of the page. Over the last year, the site readership and postership has increased markedly. They have even had to shorten the default settings a couple of times now so that you can optionally load less posts due to the steady flow of content. So, if you use HTML formatting, do it for simple stuff like line spacing, linking or the occasional bold. When it is not necessary for clarity of writing (i.e. long posts or poems look a mess without proper spacing) then refrain from using it. Thanks!

The chat board accepts html coding for formatting. This is not hard, don't worry. All html code consists of "tags" which usually (not necessarily always) go in pairs and which are in angle-shaped brackets. Example, to make a word "bold" I would put the tag B (in angle brackets), then the word I want in bold, then a /B also in angle brackets. It would look like this: bold and is coded like this: <*B>bold<*/B> but without the stars.

Here are the basic ones. Take out the stars (*). I had to put those in so that you can see the formatting code, otherwise on this page and on the Chat Board, you can't see the tags, they are invisible.

To add color: <*FONT COLOR="green">add word you want colored here<*/FONT*>
You can use basic color names like red, blue etc. in place of "green" but fancier colors you need to use hexadecimal for, like #FFFFCE is a pale yellow. There are color charts available on other web pages.
To add a blank line: <*P>
To get a new line without a space: <*BR>
To get an html link: <*A HREF="http://put address here!">*Put Name of link you want others to see here, example: My Web Page*<*/A>
To get a solid line: <*HR>
To get a link to an email address: <*A HREF="mailto:your email address here">your email address here again, this is the part the person sees<*/A>
To get bold: <*B>put desired bold word here<*/B*>

A word on pictures. Yes, you can post pictures to the page but please do not!!!. See the warning under this topic heading, above. They are not appreciated. We'd prefer a link to a web site to look at the picture so that it becomes our choice. The reason is, it takes up too much room (even a small picture is 30k) and most of us think the download time of the regular page is already long.

Don't be shy about having a go. Spacing increases the readability of your post. If you're worried, start with a blank line first then if you mess it up it won't matter much. No one gets mad if you goof up.

On Posting Etiquette
To reply to a Post
Please do follow these instructions, or the board gets very confusing.

The yellow numbers you see above some posts indicate that the post is a new one. Board members often refer to these numbers in their own new posts. Someone might write for example: "Hey, remember that warning at 21239 about vicious dogs attacking horses? Well I read that...."

It is important when replying to a post that you reply in such a way that the whole conversation stays together on the board. To reply to a specific post, so that the reply comes up under the post, click on the red word "reply". That will take you to the input page. Type in your reply; push the button that says "Add Your Message” and your reply will be posted under the original post. Notice that you can see the other responses to the original message at the bottom of the input page. This is helpful for remembering details like the other fellow's name.

If you want to start a new grouping of messages, known as a "thread" then click on Enter New Notice at the top of the page and go for it. You'll notice your new post has its own reply and numbered yellow rectangle.

Swearing and Abuse of Others
The board has a policy, which you should have already read, on swearing, abuse and advertising. Basically, swearing and abuse will not be tolerated and your password is likely to be suspended after a second incident of swearing, or a couple of abusive incidents. The posts that got you kicked off will be deleted. Board readers do not go to the board to read that sort of thing. Personal grudges should not be aired on the board. We do not care. Take it to e-mail.

Differing opinions and even on-topic arguments are welcome, however, as long as the posts contain useful, on-topic information. As soon as it becomes personal, that is when you should refrain from posting.

Because of the volume of posts, it's not a great idea to indulge in personal chit chat either. If it is more suitable to email, use email. It's a fine line because public congratulations, commiserations etc. are a healthy part of the Board chatter so just use your common sense.

Advertising
Although there is a policy against it, most of us don't mind ONE advert if you have a horse, float, saddle or whatever horsy gear for sale, or a want ad. It gives us a chance to see what's out there if nothing else. More than one per week is just annoying and someone is likely to tell you to stop it, and even if they don't, they're all thinking it! A great site most of us frequent is www.trademe.co.nz under the Equestrian section. Put your advertisement on there, we'll all see it!

Etiquette and Netiquette
CAPITALS ARE THE EQUIVALLENT OF SHOUTING AT SOMEONE! Please don't use them. Much nicer is to use color, or bold on one word to catch attention. For instance: Sue thank you for the information. Jim, yes you can borrow my float. Also, please do use proper spelling, line spacing, capitals, grammar, etc. as you are much more likely to be taken seriously. Like it or not, your personality is being represented through your writing. Teens, leave the silly slang for talking amongst your mates. "Whateva" etc. just looks stupid and makes our education system look bad. We may not say so, but it irritates us and a lot of people will be skipping posts with such baby talk. If someone does tell you off (and they will), take it gracefully.

To help convey emotion, we sometimes use emoticons and short forms. An emoticon is a "smiley" face, like this :) or a frowny face like this :( and here is a wink ;) and there are about 60 variations with noses, eyebrows, hair etc. For instance @:*) If you look closely, you'll see these are faces turned sideways. We use them to convey emotions when what we say may be taken the wrong way.

Short forms are using the first initials of words. For instance, LOL means lots of laughs, ROTFL means roll on the floor laughing, IMHO means in my humble opinion and there are others. Emoticons and short forms can be found on various web pages on the internet that contain detailed information and lists of them.
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What Insurer should I use for my horse?
One board member wrote:
BLOODSTOCK UNDERWRITERS - are great - http://www.equinsurance.co.nz/ I have been in the unfortunate position of having to claim (they say you don't know what they are like until you claim!) and they were amazing - it was my decision whether to put him down or not and they would stand behind what I did. We ran through all the likely scenarios and they gave me the answers. My claim was settled within 10 days - I was really concerned at first how an insurance company dealing with live animals would be - unlike a car you can't park it up and fight it out - but I can't speak highly enough of them The other thing is they have vet cover as part of their normal cover - if I remember rightly it was $80 for $2000 worth of cover - after you have spent $500 on vet, then you get up to 50% of the sum insured. So in this case $1000. This is not for one offs either - the horse can recover, and if you are really unlucky can claim that more than once in a year. Their number is 0800 378 467 e-mail bul@equins.co.nz; website www.equinsurance.co.nz. 7247
And another board member replied:
Yep although I've never had to claim (touch wood!) I've found them really helpful with all things related to insuring my boy; basically costs are $80 for $2000 cover, $160 for $4000 and $240 for $6000 etc.
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How can I keep proud flesh from forming?
Prevention is the best idea. Suturing of small wounds, keeping the wound clean, and wrapping a wound are good preventatives and should be your first course of action. In addition you can try the following:
Use plain old table salt thrown onto the wound. It will sting though. Leave it on for as long as you can, then wash it off. (From 5 seconds to 5 minutes...!)
One board member swears by Yellow Lotion is for Proud Flesh prevention.
Everdien van Eerten produces herbal remedies for horses and has a concentrated St John's Wort salve that has been used successfully by riders and a number of vets. St John's Wort has the effect of minimizing the production of granular tissue amongst other things. If you give them your e-mail address they can send you information on it. They make their product to British Pharmaecopia Standards and have a fully qualified chemist making the product. E-mail hiralabs@xtra.co.nz. Also this post from Everdien: There are a number of things you can do to prevent the formation of proud flesh. The 'dead' flesh will fall away and what will be left will be a ring of secondary tissue. Manuka honey is very good in preventing any further infection as hydrogen peroxide is produced by an enzyme in the honey. Note the honey most have a UMF rating of at least 10. This gives it an equivalent potency value to a 10% solution of phenol. Make sure that it has not been heat treated as this will destroy the Hydrogen peroxide producing enzyme. Kumarehou is also a well recognized Maori medicine from the wonderful Pommaderis. Another ointment that has some success at preventing proud flesh is St John's Wort. Your horse would also benefit from additional vitamin C. Horses do manufacture it themselves but injury uses up vitamin C If you would like more info you could email us at hiralabs@xtra.co.nz

Colloidal silver is also a possibility which is discussed in another FAQ question.

Another board member wrote about successfully using Hira Labs products" on all of my horses with great results. They also do the herbal chaff blends that everyone is talking about. Great product. Great product support. Awesome results! “Also have a look at www.aromansi.co.nz maybe they can help you!
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What do I need to consider when buying a float/who can I get to help me teach my horse to load?
If you need some one on one lessons or have float loading or handling problems there is an NZ'er who specializes in this. You can call them at 025 420 901 and please check out their website www.brucemorton.co.nz

SAFETY FIRST FOR YOU AND FUR BALL! If you are buying second hand, especially and older one, do your homework carefully. Also, for excellent articles on floats, construction and safety read the pages you can get to via the links at the bottom of this FAQ.

Some notes on choosing a float from the board members: Choosing a float largely depends on the vehicle you are towing it with. Most of the floats if towed with the family large car or anything except Nissan Safari's and Patrols, loaded with two hacks are over the weight limit on the tow bar. We (the original poster of this information) did a huge year long research into most of the floats available and found that the Freeways were the best in terms of design - they take a lot of the weight off the tow bar and as such was one of the only floats that enable me to tow with two hacks on and still be legal - most cars can only too 1800kg's - and I have a Toyota Hilux Desiel 4WD 3L Turbo - but it's not the strength of the engine it's the strength in the chassis that counts.

Trailux also came in lighter and well designed but were just a little out of our price range but great float - or else would have had one of them also. Thoroughbred as a good solid float but again put a little too much weight on the tow bar approximately 800kg's (maybe the brand new ones are lighter - would have to check - plus two hacks 600kg's each - 200kg's too heavy for most vehicles. Doesn't sound like a lot but something to think about if you have an accident and the insurance decline to pay out because you shouldn't have been towing that weight in the first place. And just to top it all off I am talking about 1800kg's under braking - if you buy an older float without brakes the weight is less -scary huh. In saying all this (had no one to talk to all day) no one seems to come to any harm or have any problems with the slight overweight towing - maybe I am too fussy - don't know.

On license requirements- you need a class 2 license (no longer HT, cars and vehicles up to 4500 are now class 1) to drive any vehicle with a gross weight of 4500 t to 15000 t. The gross weight is the max the truck can weigh fully loaded. It would be difficult then to find a truck that comes in under that once it has you, your gear and 2 horses on board, you would have to start with a truck that only weighs around 2500 and that's a pretty dinky light truck. Lots of people have small trucks that are a little too light and tend to move around on the road too much, especially if the horses move. A heavier truck gives the float and truck more stability.

Here is another post:
Hi there - Just to put my two cents worth in - been through this whole thing (like many others). It isn't necessarily the size on the engine that is the issue (although a good size engine helps) but it's the chassis on the vehicle you are towing with that is the issue. Here is a guideline on the legal side of things. When you have a tow bar fitted it must have a sticker on it stating the amount of weight that the tow bar can take - for most utes and cars this is about 1800kg's - Nissan Safaris I believe are about 2400kgs and Patrols are 2000kgs (these may not be exact but are close) and remember this is all under braking - a normal double float is about 700 - 800kg's empty (except Trailux and Freeway and maybe some others I don't know about but 700 - 800kgs is the weight for most common names) then each horse (hacks) are between 500 - 700kgs - if you have a ute or car with two horses on board you are now towing approximately 2000kgs - illegal! For all my lecturing this doesn't seem to be an issue and no one seems to be pulled up on it but in an accident there is a chance the insurance company could reject your claim. Just all worth bearing in mind when purchasing a vehicle. Also on certain vehicle towing better than others - there really is no "this type doesn't tow well" - it is all around how the suspension, tyres and steering is setup on your vehicle - this is what helps towing on "any" vehicle (partner a mechanic and setups up race cars - get this lecture all the time). Hope this helps and happy hunting.

Another post on the importance of not mixing tanalised timber and galvanized float coatings:

Regarding floors in floats and wee/poo damage: Our workshop does a tremendous number of float renovations and repairs usually involving rust and corrosion of the main chassis members and lower walls. Older floats, where the chassis was not galvanized, suffer badly from rust and pitting due to a combination of water and pee sitting between the timber and the steel. On newer floats where the steel has been hot dipped galvanized it amazing how much damage is caused by using tanalised floors, the chemical in the tanalising has a reaction with the zinc in the galvanizing and without any help from wee will rot the steel. Have you ever tried pulling a staple out of a tanalised fence post after a couple of years? There is no galvanizing left and this is the action of the tanalising. There are alternative timber treatments, which give equivalent "anti-rot" characteristic to tanalising but do not have the reaction problems of galvanizing. Some new floats are still being offered on the NZ market with this inherent problem. Anyone wanting more details please e-mail us on equestrianz@clear.net.nz
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How much does it cost to keep a horse (in NZ)?
Prices based on 2001 prices.
Are you are planning on either buying or leasing a horse? Be aware that buying the horse is the absolute cheapest part of the whole business and that once you have one you have pretty expensive on-going costs to deal with.

You can buy a horse from anywhere to free to many thousands of dollars. It is getting harder to find a broke horse under $1000. A young, broke horse with good basic training but not much experience can be had for under $2000. You can lease one from free to whatever amount you manage to negotiate. Free lease is not uncommon from people who want to retain ownership but have too many horses to ride, or who have a horse, which is useful for hacking but can't for medical reasons do anything more strenuous. There are also some people looking for leasers who will put some mileage on young, green horses or who will compete their horses to make them worth more.

Here are some real basic/average monthly costs for keeping a horse: - Grazing $50-80, unless you have your own, feed $15-50, if you are in an area of the country that requires supplementary feeding, then you have shoeing every 4-6 weeks at $50-90, unless your horse goes barefoot parts or all of the year in which case $20-$30, worming every 6-8 weeks at about $25 a paste. If you have lessons they can be $15-$60 a lesson. If you are leasing a horse you may have to pay a monthly lease fee to the owner. You then have to consider vets bills, dentists, gear etc. A couple of vet bills can cost you more than the horse did. A vet’s call-out is usually around $35-50plus travel charges plus medication. A typical call-out for a couple shots and evaluation of a minor wound can set you back $200. A test for a mineral deficiency costs $100.

Start up costs depend on the horse and whether you need gear (saddle, bridle covers, grooming gear are just the basic necessities and could cost between $500 to thousands). If you are buying a horse, get a vet check done ($100-200) as it could save on lots of vet bills if a potential horse has something wrong with it and you don't realize it. Horses certainly aren't cheap, and you often have to sacrifice your own needs and wants for your horses, but it is worth it to have a horse that loves you, and that gives you hours of pleasure. Good Luck and keep us posted. (FAQ compilers note: I work full time and it certainly would not be possible to keep my horse, which is fed in the summer on grazing only, plus a mineral supplement, without that income. I have one horse and he costs me a fortune in running costs, even without any undue vet bills, but he is also not something I would want to give up)
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Grass staggers, what is it, how do I prevent it or get rid of it?
Paspalum staggers or rye grass staggers are both are caused by fungal toxins (in the base of the grass if yours is ryegrass staggers, seed heads if paspalum). You have to keep the horse on different type of grass or feed something else at the same time next year to prevent it. Or put the horse in a paddock which doesn't have that type of grass. You can put them in a box or yard and feed hay or hard feed. Following the spore counts for facial eczema (rural news) gives some idea of pasture fungal counts but each area varies of course.

Some horses are more prone to staggers than others but in saying that your horse may not get them again. It depends on the conditions, the grass and your horse's disposition. They are more likely to get them at the changes of season so watch for any changes of behavior at these times and step in before it gets too bad and then it is easier to deal with.
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What are a horse's vital statistics?
Temperature: 99.8 - 101 degrees Fahrenheit (37.5 - 38.5 degrees Celsius).
Horses at rest take between 8-16 breaths per minute. Foals respiration is faster.
Average heartbeat is between 36 - 40 beats per minute. You can measure this by taking the pulse at the large artery under the horse's jaw.
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How do saddle seat sizes compare?
I'll add more to this as I find it.

Use a ruler or a string drawn taut and measure in arcane inches. No, that's not a special type of inches; it is my idea of humor!
Western saddle seats are measured from just behind the swell at the front (base of horn) to the back of the seat's inside edge. Australian stock saddles are measured from the front edge of the saddle to inside the back of the seat edge. English saddles are measured from the rivet near the pommel to the inside back of the seat edge. Hence a 16 inch Western is not the same as a 16 inch stock and neither is the same as a 16 inch English style. As a rough guide I estimate a 17 inch English is a 16 inch Western is a 17-18 inch Stock. On the other hand, Aussie Stock saddles seem to be meant to be a tighter fit. A 16 inch western is a middle size, a 17 English is a middle size, and although a 16 inch stock is also a typical middle size, anyone used to a 16 western or 17 English is going to think a 16 inch stock is a tight fit and might find a 17 or 18 more comfy.

Here is a link with pictures to help measure your saddle's seat. http://homepages.xnet.co.nz/~jhdeeley/seatsize.html Don't take saddle seat sizes too literally. A 16 in one make won't necessarily be the same as a 16 in another make. You really need to sit in the saddle or at least get the seller to measure it for you at points you agree on if you can't (like if you are buying off of Trademe.) If you are uncertain what size to order from a saddler, make SURE you sit in whatever type and brand of saddle you are about to order. Don’t guess or you'll be selling that flash new saddle on for a loss. Remember too that you owe it to your horse to make sure it fits him and that is more important than if it fits you.
Regarding Western Saddles, here is a good post from a saddle maker:
I guess fitting a saddle over the internet is a bit like riding through a minefield! But here is some information that may help:
There are 4 normal gullet fittings of western saddles:
1. Standard - which would fit a TB type with a higher narrower wither.
2. Semi Quarter Horse - which fits stronger built TB's and a lot of solider riding horses.
3. Quarter Horse - This fits most Quarter Horses.
4. Full Quarter Horse - which fits the very heavy built purebred horses and stock horses.
There is a large variation in types of saddles trees depending on the use they will get (e.g. Roping, Trail Riding, Cutting, Barrel Racing, etc). Like all saddles the fit on the horse is important. It should allow freedom of shoulder movement, not sit on the wither, and the bars should not be too long for the horses back.

A couple more notes from your friendly FAQ person, the "gullet size" is not necessarily going to give you the right size for your skinny/mutton withered/narrow withered/wide but high withered horse. For instance, in western saddles most semi QH bars saddles have a fork of 6 to 6 3/4 inches, anything over 7 inches is QH bars, although some at 6 3/4 are too and anything 8 or over is for draft type horses usually (also known as Full QH bars). BUT you can buy saddles that have a 5 inch fork with a flat-angled bar designed for very flat backed, wide horses (I know because I own one!) that will suite QH types very well. There's just no simple way to fit a saddle to a horse, but you can use the "gullet width" as a general guide, at least. There are other things to remember about saddles too. Such as the length of the western skirt (important for shorter backed horses), the curve in the saddle panels (flat for flat backs, curved for curved backs) and the twist in the bars (how fast they flatten out from the angle they are on over the wither). Does anyone actually *enjoy* buying a saddle? Once you find one that fits you and your four legger, I suggest you hang onto it! I also suggest strongly that you talk to the manufacturer of the saddle or to a very knowledgeable saddlery about the shape of your horse. Manufacturers of saddles often build certain ones just for particular shaped horses. Pictures of the critter would help from the side, the top, the butt looking toward the wither. Measurement of his back would be very useful too. There are other pages to tell you about that. I hate to say it but you often can't rely on what the shop keeper says, even if they are riders themselves. So it is important that you know exactly what you are doing and have done your own research.

Also in western saddles, be aware of the 3 different kinds of rigging. There is "in-skirt", D rigging and flat plate rigging. In-skirt has the front cinch hardware riveted into the skirt (the same leather as the fleece part) It's like they cut a gap in the skirt and put the cinch ring into it with rivets. Or, they don't cut the hole; they just attach the ring to the skirt with rivets. Flat plate rigging has a separate piece of leather attached to the tree and the cinch ring is attached to that. D rigging is the cinch ring attached to the tree via a strap of leather. In skirt can be more expensive to fix if it eventually wears out. It also got a bad rap in it's early days as a weaker alternative but it can be made just as strong (so I read anyway) and it appears to be a more popular manufacturing method lately, probably because it is both cheaper and easier to manufacture. It also sits next to the horse and eliminates bulky extra leather. Flat plate is less common, is generally found in higher end saddles. D rigging can interfere with the swing of the fender forward, but it the most common method in older saddles and is stronger and more easily repaired if it is worn than in-skirt rigging.

When buying western there is also the position of the girth rigging to consider. Best I leave that to pictures. Have a look at this site, which also explains western rigging: www.eclectic-horseman.com/newsletter/SaddlePart3.php Check out their other articles too, on saddle trees, training and more.


This is a pretty good web page for bar size and angle in English and western saddles; click the link on the same page for info. On gullet clearance: http://lorienstable.com/services/fitting/tree_sizes/
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What does St. Johns Wort do for my horse? How can I calm down my horse?
First, make sure her fizziness is not caused by too much hard feed, lack of exercise, uncomfortable tack (even mane stuck under the brow band can cause behavior problems), poor training, or a mineral deficiency such as magnesium deficiency which can cause hyper-excitability. Make sure it is also not caused by poor skill by the rider, or confusion on the part of the horse due to being ridden with different aids than the horse was taught to obey. (Note: in NZ a horse can be trained to use Western aids, English-style "pony club" aids, or station rider aids and they vary significantly and it can be very confusing to a horse to be ridden differently than it’s used to!)

Nervousness can also be caused by electrolyte imbalance in the blood in horses worked and sweated regularly but in which body salts have not been replaced. If you've covered all that thoroughly, it might pay to try some herbal blends.

St John's Wort is an herb/weed that is used as an alternative to Prozac (antidepressant). It has sales of 20 million per year in Germany. It is also being used for HIV treatment in USA. Its use for animals is only now being recognized. It acts in several ways to make seratonin available to the brain, which in turn make the person/horse/dog/cat feel more contented.

Hira Labs uses a mix of dried herbs and a very small dose of St John's Wort Tincture for a period of a few months then they change the blend. To get the most suitable blend for your horse it is recommended that you fill out their questionnaire first. If you want to find out more either ring them evenings 06 34 50 737 or e-mail hiralabs@xtra.co.nz

Don't experiment with St. Johns Wort on your own. It's a poisonous plant. Leave it to the people who know what they're doing.

A magnesium and vitamin B1 (thiamine) supplement can help with calming and keeping the horse's mind on his job too. Magnesium deficiency can cause "spookiness" so just add Calmag or Dolomite to the feed if he doesn't get this already. Ask your vet for dose advice.
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My horse is too forward going, she is hard to stop and to get to walk what can I do?
I know this isn't much help but I would suggest lessons at this point. There could be a variety of causes and it sounds like you need a knowledgeable person on the site to help you.
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How do I get to the chat room? Are there similar forums to this one?
http://www.horsetalk.co.nz/chat.shtml For a similar forum to our notice board try www.horsetalk.co.nz
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What is the natural (and hopefully cheaper) alternative for Biotin supplements?
1.2 c of soybean meal per day will yield as much biotin as most of the supplements. 1/2 c per day of ground millet (do it in a blender) will also improve hooves -including bones and ligaments due to its high silica content. It enhances calcium absorption as well. Soybean meal is available at most feed merchants. Millet you can buy bulk from bird shops and grind yourself.
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Buying TB's off the track/Buying a Standardbred
If you are getting your first horse, or if you're inexperienced, forget this option. You need a well-broke, been-there, done-that horse. Otherwise, the following are excerpts from replies about this question. Most board members seem to agree on these points.

It's really going to depend on your experience as to how a TB off the track will turn out and also the handling and training he/she has had at the track. The two things I found was that on the one hand they are usually very good in the handling department i.e. shoeing, floating, covers on and off etc, then on the other hand you really need to start from the basics with the riding, I tended to treat my boy like he'd just been broken in when riding him as what I was asking was all new and he really had no idea, so I started slow, lots of walking and trotting, turning, stopping and hacking out was the best thing for him, lots of patience is required but they are very rewarding if you take the time to get them going, just remember they really don't have much idea of leg aids and as for their mouths they can vary.

I have found that some horses love being off the track, they love the one on one and are willing to learn. Others find the change hard confusing and stressful. E.g. they don't understand legs aids and get stressed. Then there are their mouths. I have found the horse that pulls easier than the horse that has never been asked for a contact.

Feeding and Condition: TB's that have been hard feed all their lives thrive on hard feed, high energy values and all the no no's. Getting the right feed program can be a headache. Not always the case. Breeding can play an important part into traits. Look into the Sire and mares breeding.

Try and make some inquiries into what the trainer is like with his horses too. There are a couple of trainers who always seem to have "nutters"--their horses are always going sideways and leaping around going on and off the track. Other trainers have a reputation for having very relaxed horses. Some horses are always trucked to the track and wouldn't know how to walk down the road if they tried, and other trainers always have their horses ridden in and home (not always the ones that live the closest either). When you see a 40kg apprentice riding one and leading 2 others down the road after they have worked, you can be fairly sure they are sensible animals.

On buying A Standardbred

There was someone asking where to buy a standardbred, there is an 'adopt a standardbred' programme run by Kelly Taylor, the website is www.horsetalk.co.nz/standardbred/ the phone numbers given on the site are 025 224 9597 or 03 325 2737 I say good on you for giving them a go, they deserve a break - people after my own heart :-) here is an excerpt from a page from the above website. The fate of a racehorse that did not make the grade in Harness Racing would normally be humanely destroyed ("dog tucker"). However, among that group of horses there are a large number that are healthy, young, and well mannered that would make perfect riding horses. In the past, the standardbred has had no other use after racing but as a hack. Nowadays there is a demand for these horses in the show ring, trekking, riding schools and as carriage horses. Standardbred showing has come a long way in the last couple of years and now the horses have their own classes in most A and P shows around the country.

There are also many people riding unraced SB's in a variety of activities from hacking to the show ring. SB's are generally very well conformed and have an excellent temperament.

The NZ Standardbred Riding Association can be contacted at PH: 03 342 7671.

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Notes on saddle fit.
For further information on this important topic, see the Saddle Fitting links in the links section of the FAQ, located at the bottom of the page. Or click here to get to the same place: Links to saddle fitting pages It is important to note that improper saddle fit (and tack fit for that matter) can cause a huge range of behavior problems, and performance problems, in your horse. Even many that seem unrelated. Saddle fit is extremely important for the health and comfort of your horse and all of us should make ourselves as knowledgeable as possible about this topic.

Here is a post from a Horse Talk reader regarding saddle fitters qualifications posted June 2001; I'll put it in quote marks: “I did a bit more digging with the UK Saddlers Stds. The ways saddlers qualify in the UK has changed over recent years and follow similar options that are offered to other trades. Now to qualify as a saddler a 4-year Apprenticeship is not required. But that option is still available. That qualification is a "Completion Certificate signed by the Worshipful Company of Saddlers". Or persons can go through a College (Polytech) and get a Qualification "The City and Guilds Skills Assessment Scheme for the Saddlery Trade" (there are different categories) This is great for overseas saddlers. They can get the qualifications without an apprenticeship. There are 9 categories and 3 levels at each category. The Foundation Course in Saddle Fitting is a separate course again and is open Society members, retail members of BETA and some Veterinary Surgeons, Farrier’s and BHSIs and Fellows.. A Registered Master Saddler is a Member of "The Society of Master Saddlers". A Trade Association for the craft retail saddler but has since embraced all aspects of the Trade in the last 15 years. The Society's aims are to safeguard the quality of work, training and qualifications of those Saddlers who make and repair saddles, bridles and leatherwork. To be a Member you have to be a resident of the UK. Also the membership is costly and really doesn't offer a lot to a saddler working out of the UK. In the UK The Society of Master Saddlers, police the Quality, Service and encourage people to buy from a Registered Master Saddler. As People are encourage to get a Registered Master Builder, when Building. E.g. of a Master Saddler (Retail): as quoted from "The Society of Master Saddlers"

These are saddlers who are trained and skilled in their own right, or employ such a craftsman, to make and repair saddles and harness and to retail these and other items of equipment required by horse and rider to the public. There are other Affiliations as well. I did check these 2 saddlers out with the Qualification Scheme in the UK. Nigel Grice Kerr was a member of The Society of Master Saddlers (UK) Ltd, Completed Qualifications in the UK and Master Saddler in his own right. Another saddler that has Qualifications in the UK is Steve Smith, but not in aside saddles, yet. But he is qualified in areas that benefit other aspects of the horse world that are rear to find there. I am sure there are other saddlers here that have made the trip to the UK and got qualifications. These are UK standards, USA probably have their Standards as well. I checked these 2 saddlers with UK Standards months ago, not because I didn't believe them. I have spoken to many saddlers, but after speaking to them. And they talked about their training in the UK, I felt they were genuine. So don't get me grief. Note: A completion of an apprenticeship is not required now. A completion of an apprenticeship is not required with a lot of trades now. That is good when you have a situation as with saddlers in NZ, because there is no apprenticeship board for Saddlers. But it is sad that we have no Polytechs that offer Qualifications in Saddlery or at least saddle fitting. Who are other Saddlers here that are Qualified, What Category and What Level. I think we are short changing some saddlers that have qualified, because we don't understand the qualifications system now. “End horse chat reader quote.

Below, Anthea Burton ( citorisaddles@hotmail.com) writes about saddle fit. Anthea can be contacted via e-mail. She travels around doing fitting assessments and will show you how to do it yourself. She promotes citori saddles but will do the workshop with you whether you plan on buying one or not. No, she is not officially qualified, but her remarks here are in keeping with every other bit of information on saddle fit that you are likely to see. A word about saddle fitters. There is no professional qualification for saddle fitters in NZ that I am aware of (there is a saddle fitters qualification available in the UK and at least a couple saddle fitters here have it) so be aware that anyone can set themselves up as a saddle fitter. Just because they say they are, or sell tack, doesn't mean they know what they're doing. Learn as much as you can and keep a wary eye open.

Here is my bit on saddles and their fitting. You need to be able to read your horses sweat pattern to understand what is going on regarding the fitting of your saddle to your horse. After your horse has had a good workout and has developed a good sweat up under the saddle, take the saddle off, being careful not to drag the saddle off sideways as it could alter the reading of your horses sweat pattern. Wherever the saddle has contact on the horse you should have an even sweat mark on both sides of the horse. If it is not even, you have a problem either with the saddle or the horse not being symmetrical. Note: take a look at the horse from the back and slightly above while he is standing square and see if he DOES look symmetrical to you.

Check for sweat marks that only appear as roundish circles either sides of the front of the panels and the back of the panels, while the rest of the bearing surface is dry. With this reading the saddle is bridging and is not distributing its weight and the weight of the rider evenly. If left will cause sore backs, muscle wastage, etc not to mention the deterioration of the horse that does not want to work properly and drags its back end, or doesn't track up, or steps in an imaginary hole with its hind leg off and on.

Check for dry spots either side of the withers, where the saddle makes contact. This means that the pressure is so great that it has stopped the horse from producing any sweat. Rather like an extreme pressure point sticking you in the arm or leg, over a period of some time. Imagine how you would feel. If left, this will cause rubbing of the fur, white spots, saddle sores and very sore muscles, muscle damage etc around the sides of the wither and shoulders. The MOST important issues with saddles today that I am finding is most saddles are too narrow in the gullet and the points of the saddle actually press into the sides of the withers and or, both digs into the top of the shoulder blade, or restricts the shoulder blade from moving. This will result in impaired movement or lameness or bad behavior from the horse, like not wanting to lengthen or walk down hills, or going faster and faster, and generally giving you a bad ride.

Pressure Points, Dry Spots
Check for dry spots either side of the withers or sweat marks with dry circles in the middle to the side, of the withers. These dry spots can occur anywhere the saddle panels actually make contact on the horses back, but usually in the front around the withers and also in the cantle region. Remember to check where the saddle panels actually make contact, especially around the withers and shoulder area. Dry spots mean that the pressure is so great that it has stopped the horse from producing any sweat, rather like an extreme pressure point sticking you in the arm or leg. Imagine how you would feel! If left, this will cause rubbing of the fur, white spots, saddle sores and very sore muscles, muscle damage etc. For the cantle area, you will have a horse that is reluctant to use his back, and is weak behind. These problems are caused from saddles that that are too small for the horses, and will sit pommel high, cantle low. If the saddle is the right width for the horse, the reason could be the panels could be lumpy; you will need to get the saddle a total new repack.

Your horses sweat mark will show you where you saddle is sitting on the horses back and what damage it is doing, or show you what a good fit you have.
Your saddle should have 3 fingers clearance down the gullet all the way back to the cantle; this will prevent the saddle crossing over and damage the spinous processes. The saddle should be wide enough to clear and not sit into the sides of the wither and on and into the top of the shoulder. So it will not interfere with movement. The panels should be large and broad, for greater weight bearing surface area. The panels should be bigger that the actual seat of the saddle for stability. It is a bit like stacking boxes. You start with the largest box first finishing with the smallest box on top. Much more comfortable riding in a saddle that actually makes you feel secure.

Your saddle should have about 3 or 4 fingers clearance from the wither to the pommel. Every rider should measure their horses wither pattern in the place where the front stud of the saddle goes, and or in line with the front girth strap which is about 1 1/2 to 2 inches back from the shoulder. Trace this onto a piece of paper and every couple of months, or when you want to check do it again and compare the two. By doing this, and reading the sweat patterns of your saddle, you are monitoring your horses back changes and will be able to assess whether your current saddle still fits by measuring the underside of your saddle where the points are and comparing that to the wither pattern, see where and how it sits.

Most saddle tracings of today's saddles wouldn't every fit a dogs wither pattern, if we were to measure a dog (and if dogs had withers). The deepest part of the saddle needs to be central on the horses back. If you have a look at your own saddle and it looks uphill, your gullet is to narrow. If you use pads to lift the back up to level up the seat in the saddle, imagine the extra pressure you will be putting on the horses withers and shoulders, by forcing a saddle to sit level, by putting more pressure into the sides of the wither.

If the saddle sits down hill, it can mean it is too wide, although I have never seen this. I have found this on very narrow saddles that do not have enough panel packing to lift the saddle clear of the wither. Horses' backs change with work and especially young horses. I have one horse that grew 2 inches in one season in height and has outgrown his last year's saddle; so much I have had to buy him a bigger saddle. It is best to have your horse fitted for a new saddle when they are fit and in work, or in the case of a young horse made a bit bigger for them to grow into.

Pads are really another subject, but all I can say for the moment, beware it can be like putting on 2 pairs of socks and wearing your normal shoes. Ouch that is tight! Muscle damage can be checked by after a work out by tapping the horse gently along the withers, shoulder and whole back area. Any twitching is a sure sign of muscle bruising and or damage. After a work out your horse should NOT have a sensitive back nor should his skin be so depressed and or appear to be like a horse's skin that is dehydrated. This is usually a horse thats back has gone numb (takes about 15 - 20 minutes) from the extreme pressure of saddle and rider. Imagine being expected to work with pins and needles. Please take the time to assess your horse.

INTERCHANGEABLE GULLETS interchangeable gullets are now offered on a wide variety of saddles today. While this may appear to be a good idea one needs to look at the pros and cons of this. Saddles that have been built for a certain size tree lets say medium are built for that size tree. The problems come when the saddle gullet is changed to a large size i.e. extra wide and is suppose to fit the horse. So you end up with an x wide gullet with a medium size panels and medium size channel. If the panels are not well built under the saddle, you could find the saddle could cause damage to the back. If the channel is to narrow the spinous processes could be damaged, unless it has 3 fingers clearance all the way down the channel to the cantle. So you will end up with a saddle that is widened in the gullet, and the panels and channel of the saddle are too small for the size of the gullet. The bigger the gullet you have on a saddle requires bigger panels to give a bigger supportive bearing area to the horse, and the wider channel to accommodate the horse's spine. Synthetic saddles (most of them) fall into the bad range category. Usually they are built on a medium gullet tree, with small, thin and narrow panels, with not enough width in the channel. When the gullet is changed wider, they tend to sit down onto the withers, which gives the appearance to most people that their horse needs a narrow gullet to keep the saddle up off the withers.

SADDLE FITTING AND THE GULLET SIZE: The biggest problem with saddle in general today is the width of the gullet, and how saddle fitters measure and where that measurement it taken. From what I have gathered, talking to saddlers and fitters is the way they actually measure the horse for a new saddle. The saddle when finished should always fit on top of the horse without any pressure, like putting on a pair of gloves. (FAQ compliers note: check out the saddle fit links for pictures of well-fitting trees and saddles) Most saddle fitters actually fit the gullet plate to the horses wither measurement, then turn around and build the saddle panels under that measurement. You end up with a saddle that is too small by however wide the panels measure in width, along each side of the horse starting at the withers, shoulders and the horses back. It is vital the when you get your new saddle, that the measurement of the underside of the finished saddle (along the line of the points of the saddle) measures the same as your horses wither pattern which is taken 1 1/2 to 2 inches back from the shoulder. If your horse is young or not in condition, it is wise to have the saddle made a little bigger. It is like wearing a pair of shoes that are the perfect fit, dancing in them all night and then going to work the next day. Your feet will be sore the next day, but after a while of wearing those shoes around again your feet won't feel the pain, until you stop moving around, and then your feet will swell and become sore. It would have been far better to wear a pair of shoes 1/2 a size to big, danced all night and then went to work the next day. Not a problem, no sore feet. Saddles have the same affect on horses. It is much easier to use another saddle cloth, or best of all a sheepskin, to take up the slack rather than use a saddle that is a little too small, which will cause muscle soreness, bruising and eventually muscle wastage.

On Repacking:
As a result of my last visit to Auckland, of which I saw too many saddles repacked to the point of been overstuffed I thought I would share this with you all. Repacking is where the saddler will add and or take out packing from the panels of the saddle, in order for the saddle panels to have an even contact along the horses back. Repacking is usually done to the saddle if the sweat marks are not even, which tells you the saddle panels are not making even contact on the horses back, or on a new saddle once it has been initially broken in. A total repack for the saddle panels is for when the panels are too uneven, lumpy and or old. It can also be done to an existing saddle that is to be used on a new or different horse, which will allows the panels to pack down to suit that horses back shape. You can not repack an existing saddle to make it bigger, but you can repack a saddle, if it is a little too big, to make it smaller to fit the horses back. Quite often the saddler has little knowledge in what is actually required, which results in the saddle panels being over stuffed making the original saddle far too small for the horse, which will cause problems for the horses back and movement. The saddler should either visit the horse to view how the saddle is sitting on the horses back so he will know where to either add or remove packing, or the saddler should know how to drop the lower panels out of the saddle to be able to read the original packing, of which will show him to either add and or remove some packing. The best packing for any horses back is pure wool.

HOW TO IDENTIFY AND FIX WHERE THE SADDLE IS BRIDGING When the saddle is bridging, it is because the panels do not touch the horses back, as a result of the horses back been more curvy than that of the panels of the saddle. It will be seen within the sweat marks been sweaty front (pommel) and rear of the saddle (cantle) panels with a slightly sweaty (dryish) area in between the two sweat marks. One must be very careful as this can also be caused from a panel that is too curvy for the horses back resulting in extreme pressure, which left will cause white roaning and eventually white shaped marks along the horse back. This is usually seen as a triangle shaped dry mark along the sides of the base of the wither and spine. As lots of people have problems try to identify the exact area, there is another way to identify and sort the problem out. The Test: To find out whether the saddle is bridging or if the panels of the saddle are too curvy and are causing extreme pressure to the horse's back, follow the steps below. When you check the horses sweat markings after having ridden the horse, carefully replace the saddle back on the horse without the saddle blanket and allow the saddle to slip back into the original position on the horses back. By carefully lifting the saddle up on one side, look under to see where the bridging is occurring and mark that position with your finger on the saddle panel. Take the saddle off still marking the spot with your finger and mark the panel with a non permanent-marking pen. Put the saddle back on the horse again, in the same spot and slightly lift the saddle up by the other end and mark with your finger, lift off the saddle again keeping your finger on the spot and mark it with your non permanent marking pen, by drawing a line horizontal across the panel. You have now successfully identified where the saddle is bridging on the horses back by mark the panels with a horizontal line. When you take the saddle into the saddler to be repacked, tell him to add the wool packing in between the horizontal lines that you have marked. Sometimes you might only have a roundish or odd shape in your sweat mark, again all you have to do is just mark the underside of the saddle panels, by lifting up the saddle slightly to see and marking the shape of the dry-ish sweat mark to the panel of the saddle. Now to know how much packing to tell the saddler to add. On your next ride with the non permanent marking pen lines still on the panels of the saddle, place a small piece of towel folded in half only in between and on the part you have marked for repacking. After you have ridden the horse, read the sweat mark. You should have an even sweat mark or at least an improved sweat mark. If it is only improved, it means you need more repacking so add another layer of towel and read again. By doing this you will know how much wool repacking needs to be added by the thickness of the towels used to achieve a good sweat mark reading. Quite often you will need to shape down the size pieces of towel as you add more for the thickness, to create the right curve in paneling for the horses back, otherwise you will end up with pressure dry spots on the outside of your marked panels. Another way is to push in a wool sock into the marked area, through the top part of the panel. You can usually push your hand in although it will be a tight fit. Just make sure you place the sock evenly and flat. Cut the sock up to match the right shape and size. By doing this test, it will show you one of two things: That you have identified and fixed the problem, or two, you have made the problem worse, dry pressure points. If you have made the problem worse, this mean the in the first instance the saddle panels was to curvy for the horse back, creating to much pressure which caused a dryish or dry mark. This needs to be marked so the saddler can take out some of the packing in order to eliminate the pressure point on the horses back. Happy Horsing Anthea mastercut2000@hotmail.com

Narrow Gullet Saddles Horses with high withers and muscle wastage around the withers and shoulder area.

I sympathize with anyone who has a horse with saddle fitting problems. These horses fall into a few categories, BUT the categories and type of horse that I wish to talk about will appear to be very narrow on top of its back and could be high in the withers. These type of horses a generally use a narrow gullet saddle. Narrow Gullet Saddles It is my opinion, through my experiences that NO horse/pony should ever use a saddle with a narrow gullet. If one was to measure the saddle then measure the horse one would find the measurement from the saddle would be far too small for any horse or pony. In fact the measurement from a narrow gullet saddle, would not even fit a dogs wither measurement if we were to measure one? You will also see how using a saddle with a narrow gullet causes the wasted/damaged muscles on and around the horses withers/shoulder and back. This quite often gives the appearance of a horse having a really high wither, when really it is a wither that has bad muscle wastage making it look quite thin on top. The problems I find with this type of horse is that they have muscle wastage caused from saddles that have been to small in the first instance, and over a period of time you end up with such an unnatural back shape (saddle has reshaped the horses back) it is often very difficult to find any second hand saddle to fit this type of horse. Most saddle fitters will advise a narrow gullet saddle. I disagree with this totally and I have found that if you redevelop the horses back shape and fit a saddle accordingly with padding the horse will end up with a natural back shape. Which means no more saddle fitting problems. If you are interested in learning more read on. You really need to assess what the horse’s natural back shape should be, by filling in all the hollows. You will need to fit a saddle according to that natural back shape, as well as ensuring there is enough room for the redevelopment of wasted muscles along with room for the natural muscle expansion that occurs within the horse as he exercises. How to identify where the problem areas are from wasted muscle. You can see this as hollows along side the withers/shoulder and also see along the top of the horses back which could appear to be slab sided as well as giving the horse the appearance of having a slight roach back, when in actual fact the horse doesn't. You can also use a long flexi curve pulled gently across the top of the horses back (spin) down (vertically) along his sides. You will need to slide the flexi curve gently along and you will see the hollows appear which is muscle wastage. You can also stand up behind the horse to view the top line of his back shape for symmetries, which also shows muscle wastage areas. Once you have discovered these problem areas, then you can apply a recovery programme to redevelop the muscle wastage area. This can happen quite quickly, depending on the type of exercises used to redevelop the horses back. As for saddling the horse, put your horse into a wider gullet saddle, pad accordingly, watch and monitor the changes with in your horses back as his muscles redevelop. Selecting a saddle for the horse with muscle wastage Measure your horses wither/shoulder measurement, draw this onto a large piece of paper, and keep this for your future records. Measure the horse again with his padding added into any hollows, (padding hollows see below) draw this on to a large piece of paper. Measure the width of your current saddle; compare this to the tracing of measurement with the padding added into the hollows. The saddle measurement and horse’s assumed natural measurement should at least be the same width, but preferably the saddle measurement should fit over the horse’s measurement and still allow 3 fingers clearance for the withers. You can also cut this measurement out and take it with you when you are selecting another saddle; this should slide up easily into the gullet, and should stop about 3 finger clearance before it touches the pommel. If you measure your current saddle width with your fist (knuckles up), as this will also help you to select a wider saddle. Try as many different types of second hand saddles, and choose one that is wide in the gullet in the first instance, which will allow room for the horse to redevelop his wasted muscles. If the saddle you find it a bit too big and sits down or close to the withers, use a back pad to lift the saddle up off the horses back for the time being. By monitoring the changes within the horses back and reading the sweat marks, you will find that the horses back shape will change by the redeveloping muscle which gives the horse a bigger natural shaped to his back. Soon depending on how long and type of work and exercise the horse receives, the saddle will no longer require a back pad. Pad up the horses wasted muscle area to give a more natural back, shoulder/wither shape. For any horse that has bad muscle wastage around the withers/shoulders you will need to use a thick piece of padding like sheepskin, to fill in any hollows. You then place a saddle blanket, back pad if required on top then the saddle. You will find by creating a more natural back shape for the horse in the first instance, the saddle will sit level and fit without sitting down into the withers. You must of course try the saddle out with all its extra padding along with the rider to ensure that the pommel doesn't sit into the top of the withers (must have 2 to 3 fingers clearance) or you will end up with serious problems and damage to the withers. Other helpful ideas while trying to find second hand saddles: Any saddle that is wider in the gullet than the current saddle being used will benefit the problem horse that has muscle wastage. The horse will only redevelop muscle as to what the saddle width will actually allow. If the saddle width is not enough and or not changed to a wider saddle, the horse in work will start back down the track of wasted muscle again. It is quite possible and I have used many different saddles all getting wider and wider in width to redevelop the horses back, until the horse got to the point of being fully developed. The only hassle I had was sometime the saddle only lasted a few weeks, and then I had to sell it as well as find another saddle that was wider than the last. Bareback: This is the quickest way to redevelop wasted muscles along the horse's wither/shoulder and back area. Once you have got use to it, you can school/ride the horse just like you could with a saddle. A thick saddle blanket or blankets or sheepskin use with a soft surcingle to hold in it in place make a more comfortable softer ride for the rider. I also use a neck strap for added security, great for lots of trotting, as you can hook your little fingers under the strap, which gives stability for the rider. This sometimes can be the best option to redevelop the horseback, then select and fit a saddle to your horse's new back shape.

FAQ Compilers notes:
Some interesting facts I read on saddle fitting while in a magazine shop reading articles by saddle makers:
1.The widest area on either side of the spine you can put pressure on (i.e. saddle panels) is 7 inches. The longest length is 24 inches.
2. Most people, "...including 95% of professional riders..." ride with the saddle too far over the withers. The saddle should fit behind the shoulder blade. There should be four fingers width between the horses elbow and the girth. (NOTE: this is the second time I've seen a saddle fitter say most people ride with the saddle on too far forward, one magazine I read said slide it back until it feels like it settles, then slide it back and do the same again.)

One of the best comments I heard about saddle fitting was to the effect that you can't fit a saddle EXACTLY to your horse, partly because it is not economical and partly because even if you did, as the horse moves, the horse changes shape, not to mention all the changes it goes through during the season. The best you can hope for, he said, was to get one that fit as well as possible as much of the time as possible. Just do your best to do that. If you want to read about saddle development and fit and how it evolved then I recommend the book The Saddle in Theory and Practice by Elsyn Harley Edwards, available from Mike and Jill Nelson, phone 64 9 294 8233 or Fax 64 9 294 8293. Cost about $25?

The book mentioned in the Saddle Fit links section backs up much of what Anthea has to say, plus shows pictures of the muscle wastage around the withers. So do some of the links in the links section. Check out the links on this topic, they're good. If you have any to add, please contact me.
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Zinc in the water trough
You can put zinc in all your troughs and it is fine for sheep, cattle and horses. Keeps the water nice and clear too. "Excess zinc can be toxic and lead to skeletal problems in young horses" Page 20, Topic One, Massey University notes on Introduction to Equine Nutrition, 2001.
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I'm worried about a potentially poisonous tree, where can I look for info?
Pine needles are not at all poisonous. Pharmaceutical grade turpentine was made from it and used once upon a time as a vermifuge for horses for parasites. Pine needles have terpenes in them and are safe. Pregnant mares should not eat macrocarpa due to action on hormones where she may abort.

There is an article in an issue of Horse and Pony (around Nov. 2001, continued through two issues) about poisonous plants, garden plants included, and there is a list. Here are some that are poisonous to horses:
acorns, arum lily, avocado skins and nuts, broom, buttercup, castor oil plant, cape honey flower, cape weed, cherry laurel, daphne, datura, foxglove, hemlock, hydrangeas, ivy, karaka, kowhai, laburnum, larkspur, lawn clippings, linseed, macrocarpa leaves, oleander, paspalum, poppy, privet, ragwort, rhododendron, potatoes, wild parsnip, yew.
There are others. Those are the ones I've heard of and are commonly found in your garden.
There are other harmful plants and trees out there. Some are harmful if eaten long term (buttercups) some are harmful and fatal or so harmful the horse has to be put down due to liver damage (ragwort). I also recently found out the seeds in silk trees can be fatal at 1.5 percent of body weight to sheep and dogs and I am checking into horses. If you are worried, find out!

You can try these links:
http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/index.html or http://texnat.tamu.edu/cmplants/toxic/bylivestock.html and
http://vet.purdue.edu/depts/addl/toxic/cover1.htm

Your local DOC might be able to help. An internet search engine should too. Also try your local pony club and pony club manuals.
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My ex racehorse is a bleeder, what is that and is he ok now?
(The next paragraph is a paraphrase of page 82-83 of "Health Care and Common Problems of Horses," ISBN # 0958933979)
"Bleeders are horses that bleed (exercise induced pulmonary hemorrhage) from one or both nostrils after strenuous exercise. Horses most at risk are those who work at maximum effort. Working a horse suffering from a virus increases the chance of bleeding. Bleeding is thought to be caused by an increase in pulmonary (lung) artery blood pressure resulting in rupturing of the arteries. Studies indicate that oxygen uptake is compromised, possibly causing the horse to process less oxygen and fade in the race as a result. 98% of bleeding remains hidden, with very few cases of noticeable bleeding at the nostrils. In most cases, a horse that has bled should be kept quiet and allowed to drink cool water. In more severe bleeding, a vet should be consulted immediately. Horses, which show bleeding at the nostrils or are confirmed by scoping to be severe bleeders may require 2-3 months of rest before returning to training. Continuing to work a horse after a bleed...can lead to permanent lung damage and greatly increase risk of future bleeds." end paraphrase

This part is from a Horse Talk reader:
Research has now shown that probably 90% of racehorses bleed at some stage of their career, but most of the time it is so slight that it goes unnoticed. A horse is classified as a bleeder when there is visible blood coming out of the nostrils, and is usually confirmed by scoping that there is blood in the windpipe. I believe the scope must be performed almost immediately--within 24 hours the blood will have clotted and be reabsorbed into the body or coughed up (usually the clots are so minuscule you'd never notice them). Bleeding can be suspected in a horse that stops quickly when the pressure goes on at the end of a race and when the horse coughs and coughs and coughs afterwards, but there are lots of other things that could cause these symptoms too.

Under NZ and Australia rules of racing a horse that bleeds must not race for 3 months and if it bleeds a 2nd time it is disqualified from racing forever. Many horses bleed once and never bleed again. The recurring cases seem to me to be when the horse is kept in work and raced again as soon as the 3 months are up. Horses that are actually turned out for that 3 months so their lungs can recover from the stress very seldom have recurring problems. An ex racer doing eventing will probably be fine, as you are more inclined to feel if your horse is beginning to get under stress with his breathing. In the race situation adrenalin can keep a horse galloping flat out long after he would be pulling himself up stressed if he was on his own, and that is when the damage is done. I've never heard of a horse retiring form a cc course bleeding, so it can't be anywhere near as common as with racehorses.

(The next bit is a paraphrase of page 85 of "Health Care and Common Problems of Horses," ISBN # 0958933979)
Things you can do to prevent bleeding in former racehorses are:
1. Treat any respiratory problems under vet supervision as bleeding often occurs subsequent to other airway diseases
2. Reduce airborne dust by soaking hay and dampening feed
3. Select and maintain dust free bedding
4. Avoid dust i.e. in arenas or behind other horses on the trail
5. Always warm a "bleeder" 7-10 minutes before hard or fast work, especially in cold weather, or exercise a bleeder later when it has warmed up
6. Do not swim a bleeder as the high blood pressure and sustained lung inflation may cause an increased risk.
7. Avoid maximal sustained effort and blood pressure peaks by working at 3/4 pace with short hit-outs over 300-400 meters 2-3 times per week once the horse is conditioned for fast work.
8. Feed the horse at below chest height to lesson chance of inhaled dust

Here is an interesting chart about the report of bleeders in various activities from the same source (which is Australian):
Incidents related to activity (1996 review)
thoroughbred racing 92 %
standardbred racing 87 %
quarterhorse racing 62 %
appaloosa racing 52 %
eventers 40 %
polo ponies 11 %
endurance horses 0 %
It also says there have been some reports not recorded in scientific journals of bleeders in endurance horses subject to strenuous uphill exercise.
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Suggestions for the treatment of arthritis
Arthritis is inflammation and degeneration within a joint. There can be swelling at the joint, warmth to the touch, soreness when the joint is flexed and lameness. The soreness is the body's way to discourage exercise and allow the inflamed joint to repair itself. Continued wear and tear and concussion can cause erosion of cartilage and bone or the growth of bony "spurs". Chronic lameness can occur. (Paraphrased from "Health Care and Common Problems of Horses," ISBN # 0958933979)

For those of you looking for medications/treatments for arthritis, or any sort of joint condition, Brookby Herbs Free Mover (find out more at http://www.brookbyherbs.co.nz) has been used very successfully by one board member. Here is her input:
For those of you that have followed the progress of my 4 yr old TB Mickey, diagnosed with ringbone/degenerative joint disease/arthritis, about 6 weeks ago, I can now say that he has been sound for nearly 3 weeks. The only medication he has been on is the glycosamine and Free Mover. I am now starting to ride him again, and have had no signs of heat, stiffness or lameness, and I am sure it is from using these two products. Free Mover is a completely natural substance, made from the herbs devils claw, meadowsweet and other herbal anti-inflammatories. It is not an expensive product at $30 for a small bucket that lasts 4-6 weeks, 15mgs mixed in with feed, once a day. I was giving Mickey this daily for the first 2 weeks, and 5 mgs glycosamine, and now have reduced it to 3-4 days a week (only because I haven't got time to feed it everyday), and he is still sound.

Another popular alternative is straight Glycosamine. The fluid in the joint is made of glucosamine so by feeding it (FAQ compiler note: Is that the stuff called Spinovial fluid?) to the horses you can actually rejuvenate the fluid. A lot of people are put off, as they don't see quick results. It is slow to show results because it is actually repairing the fluid rather than treating the symptoms. I read a really good description once where they compared joint fluid to old engine oil: thin and gritty. By giving Glucosamine you are returning it to an elastic and clean state.

Judith of Whenuapai (from the board) sells it. So do vets. Judith sells hers for $100.00 for 500 grams. Some vets are selling for $140.00 for 400 grams. Other places to buy the stuff in Auckland are Fiskens in Pukekohe (ph 09 238 9414) at around $95-100 per Kg and Dominion Chemicals in East Tamaki (09 274 7676) at around $110 per Kg excl GST.

Here is another herbal suggestion, and free from Louise:
After doing some research, I have started feeding nettle 'tea' to my horses. I basically cut the nettle, pop it in a bucket and pour boiling water over it, I then leave it overnight and strain the 'tea' off the nettle leaves and pop that in a bottle to store in a cool, dark place. I feed about 1/4 a cup per horse per feed. Nettle Tea has been used through history as a detoxifier for the blood system, removing unwanted impurities. It also helps with lowering blood sugar and improving digestion and relieving pain. You can add all sorts to your tea if you want and even drink it yourself (I am not that game though). I have some mint that I plan to add to the next batch and I plan to get some rose hips too. Hope this helps :o) Also forgot to mention that it is good for arthritic conditions and, as I have a couple of geriatrics here, I am hoping it will offer them some benefits :o)
Everdien of Wanganui added:
Louise has said it all. The beauty about stinging nettle is that it is a weed and absolutely free. Multi-national drug companies really don't appreciate these little gems from nature because they cannot be patented. I like to give the horse a handful daily made as a tea. ( Louise's Brew.)It is rich in iron silica potassium manganese and sulphur. It is the formic acid that causes the sting. An interesting Mexican treatment for childbirth was to brush stinging nettle over the naked belly of a woman in labor. As well as that she would have hot chilies rubbed over her body. What actually happens is that the brain produces substance P, which is responsible for pain. Once this is depleted the sensation of pain supposedly stops. Another noxious weed that is a brilliant blood cleanser is the variegated thistle. Makes grubbing out thistle much more meaningful.
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Where can I buy my minis some gear?
Try Tiny Tack in Auckland, talk to Jan Okeefe. Jan's phone number is 09 4209255 or fax: 09 4209257. E-mail: dokeefe@xtra.co.nz. Website: www.tinytack.co.nz.

You can get covers at Saddlery Warehouse and Goodwoods have mini gear too, their web site is www.goodwoodcovers.co.nz.

I (FAQ compiler) haven't actually tried her covers but Julie Barclay of Mable Jean Covers makes top quality (Regentex) canvas covers, sizes from minis to clydes. She also makes covers, synthetic or canvas for foals, donkeys, alpaca, goats, dogs, etc. as well as doonas for minis. If customers have a special requirement she can probably accommodate these. She lives in Warkworth, but works from Dairy Flat, Auckland. Phone No 09 426-6131 or 09 425-7006, mobile 025-268-7863. She does mail orders. She also makes show rugs, (She did the show rugs for the Horse of the Year 2001) saddle blankets, floating and shipping boots etc.
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Does my horse need shoes?
As with most horse questions, the answer is maybe, maybe not. If you do most of your riding in soft paddocks, arenas and trails no. If you do some roadwork or some work on hard ground that is at the same time slippery (like clay) or rocky, then maybe. If you do a lot of road work on tar seal or gravel (metal) than maybe and more likely. Although you should try to keep roadwork and definitely tar seal expeditions to a minimum, it's hard on legs, heals, etc. Think of how your legs feel after walking on it! A good book I recommend on hoof care and shoeing is the book No Foot, No Horse, (available from Equestria Books, Mike and Jill Nelson, phone 64 9 294 8233 or Fax 64 9 294 8293)

Plenty of back yard horse owners choose to trim regularly and otherwise go bare hoofed. Going bare is not for all horses though. Some conformation or health problems or the work the horse is doing may require shoeing. You need to speak to your vet or Farrier. My (FAQ compiler's) personal experience has been that I have owned one horse that had to be shod at all times or the hoof would wear down too fast even just from hooning around in the paddock. My current horse has no need of shoes at all for the riding we are doing (trails, paddock, beach, arena). So you see it just depends. Some people whose horses do not need shoes except for occasionally choose to use boots that slide over the hooves. These have to be well fitting but seem to work for some people. Old Macs are one brand. Important! If you choose not to use shoes, you still have to have a Farrier trim regularly unless you trim yourself. Regular hoof care is one of the three basics of horse care.

Be wary of fads in horse hoof care. If you read a lot on the topic you will find that dodgy theories are recycled and go in and out of fashion.

Here is a farriery article from the NZ vet site's web page (for the whole NZ vet site, see the link under Farrier and vet links at the bottom of this page)

Subject: Horse Hoof Care
Proper care of a horse's hooves is one of the three basics for a healthy horse (the other two are appropriate diet and regular worm control). Qualified farriers are experts in trimming hooves correctly, and should be your first call for problems. Often, correcting problems requires the Farrier and the vet to work together to solve them. When correctly trimmed, the hoof wall should touch the ground all the way around, the angle of the front of the hoof wall (when viewed from the side) should be the same as the angle of the pastern (i.e. a straight line from fetlock to the ground in front), and when looking at the hoof from in front it should slope evenly both sides to the ground without flaring in or out. Underneath, there should be no diseased or dead tissue on the frog which should be the normal shape; the bars should be level with the hoof wall at the outer edge and taper to the sole level at the front; the sole should be concave and below the hoof wall level (so it doesn't take direct weight) as well as having most dead sole (flakey and cracked) removed; and all sharp edges on the edge of the hoof wall rounded off.

Preventing hoof problems is dependant on a correct diet, and regular (every 6 to 8 weeks) trimming of your horse's hooves by a qualified Farrier. (FAQ compilers note: you should probably trim more than this if your horse is going bare foot especially in the summer when the hoof grows faster and may chip if allowed to become too long) Some horses have quite crumbly soft hoof walls, and require their diet to be supplemented with things like MSM, Biotin, Calcium, Zinc and Methionine to achieve a healthy hoof. Avoid at all costs damage to the periople at the hairline (coronet). There are a number of good commercial products available to help with poor hoof growth such as Durahoof.

There are numerous problems that can occur with horse's hooves from injuries to lack of attention. Treatment of each problem should be discussed with your farrier and your vet. Hoof cracks are a common problem, yet each one is different; different depth of crack, location on the hoof, lengths and causes. Treatment of these basically revolves around one or more of the following: Dietary supplements; Notching the upper limit of the crack; Altering weight-bearing surface of the hoof to avoid weight taken at the crack site (remove a portion of the wall at the crack site/rubber or plastic pads to take weight away from crack site); Stabilizing the crack with clips/screws/wire sutures and hoof repair materials (fiberglass/epoxy resins/acrylics); Corrective/Special shoeing (bar shoes). End of article.

More on hooves in this post from a board member, it sounds like Everdien to me (can't attribute it because I accidentally deleted the header, sorry:
I have read some earlier posts on the subject of hooves and quality. A few pointers may be worth considering and they have been mentioned earlier, is that hoof health is dependent on what the horse eats, its general condition and that changes of diet (poor season or illness) shows up in the hoof and takes around nine months to grow out. The coronet is responsible for the production of horny tissue. Moisturisers should be massaged into this area daily with the oils seeping into the horn. Stockholm tar seals the surface, which does not allow the movement of water in and out of the hoof. Inadequate levels of protein, minerals and vitamins can affect hoof growth. Other factors are, blood supply to the laminae and lack of substances like biotin and methionine (legumes) silica (millet, stinging nettle). Another thing you should do is give the horse plant based pectin's (similar to gelatine which is something we don't really like because it is animal based and horses are herbivores. Mad cow disease etc) Rose hips, apples (with pips) contain pectin. The horse should be given substances that help with regeneration of tissue like green tea, rosehips.

And a last quote from a Farrier who frequents the news group rec. eq :
The only reasons horses *need* shoeing are protection, traction, or to effect a therapeutic change in way of going.
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What does "collection" mean in a horse? Does it mean the head should look a certain way, or what?
From what I've gathered talking to people about their horses, many of them are confused about what collection is. It is a horse using its muscles "correctly" which is to say, efficiently, comfortably, but above all, athletically. It is, however, not a "relaxed" way to work for the horse because it takes more energy than not being collected. Collection is a gathered sort of energy. The horse is not ambling sloppily around, more like it is ready to spring into action, but at the same time it is light and responsive to the rider. Think of yourself pretending to be a lion sneaking up on prey. Think of how all your muscles are engaged in the process. Think of the tension of the muscles, but the elasticity too. That's collection. Or if you want a human analogy, think about walking or jogging in a race, energetically with purpose and determination. That's collection. Now relax and think of walking along slowly, half dragging your feet, kicking leafs like a child trying to avoid going home with a bad report card. That's not collection. A lot of the time your horse and you too are not working in collection and that's fine and normal. You and your horse can be collected in any pace.

Collection (working athletically) causes the horses back to round, hocks to come under the body, (vs. dragging along behind) and neck to round, causing the face to become more vertical. Think of high-class dressage horses on TV. Think of your own horse without a rider when they are feeling good and go for a canter or trot for fun.

Where people seem to get confused is they see a horse working this way and all they understand is that the head is tucked under with the face vertical and then they think if their horse has its head like that it must be working correctly, when such is not necessarily the case. Collection can't be forced with gadgets, twitching on your horse's mouth and various other short cuts. Collection is achieved when your horse is fit enough to move athletically, is being ridden correctly, and understands what (as in trot, turn etc.) it is being asked to do and is not resisting you. When you have those three things, the horse will collect itself; it doesn't need your help. You'll feel the spring in its step, the willingness through the bit as it seeks contact, and see her neck round of her own accord. It's a lovely feeling.

For an excellent explanation of collection in easy to understand language with pictures and drawings as examples of what collection is and is not look here: http://www.horsemanpro.com/articles/collection.htm
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How can I tell how big my young horse will get?
Take a piece of string and run it from the bottom of the fetlock joint to the elbow. Then use that length to run it from the elbow up. That should be the height at maturity (where the withers will top out).
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I'm thinking of bringing in a saddle from another country. How much does it cost? What's the procedure for new or second-hand goods?
DO declare your saddle and tack. If used, it will need fumigation. We cannot afford to bring in diseases or insect/plant life to NZ. Think of foot in mouth. Although it does not affect horses, gear can carry in foot in mouth. In NZ we have almost ten sheep for every single person in NZ for a total of over 44 million sheep. Stock in NZ are a huge portion of the economy. Do bring your gear with you. It is very expensive to replace in NZ. (Incidentally that goes for all your other possessions too, including books)

If you are moving to NZ, you bring your personal goods with you for free, including horse gear. It is well worth bringing it! You still need to tell them about it, same as tents, bicycles, etc. for safety.

If you are importing new goods, have a look at the Customs Sitehttp://www.customs.govt.nz/importers/Private+Importers/Customs+Charges.htm#paraTitle01 Saddles are included in the list that attract tariff duty (7% for saddles) in addition to GST 12.5% (quoted as of June 2005) and expect around $50-90 USPS for shipping in U.S dollars. It will take about seven days to arrive. There was someone on the Board that was working for Customs. Post additional questions there. If you are importing through an NZ shop (i.e. buying a Syd Hill saddle from Tawoomba Australia through Ranchware in Whangerei), you don't worry about that stuff, the shop takes care of it. They'll give you the retail price.
If you are coming or going to Aussie, e-mail these guys they are helpful and reply quite quickly information@customs.gov.au or ph +61 2 6275 6666 or try this website...http://www.customs.gov.au or the NZ site http://www.customs.govt.nz If you are bringing a cover into NZ it is NZ Customs you need to speak to, the Aussies will just refer you to ours. Ph 0800 428 786 (08004CUSTOMS) and they can sort you out re: GST and any duty payable.
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Got any good recipes for canvas cover waterproofing mixes?
Of course we do! One board member buys a box of candles, cost under $5.00 (1 box will do 2 rugs) paint the hot wax on the rug, then use an old iron and iron the rug which melts the wax in. This works well, and lasts. You need to use an old iron, kept just for this type of messy work. Do not use your good iron for this job or you will ruin any clothing that is ironed after using it for melting wax into the rug.

Another one: You can use a block of paraffin wax (melt it) add 1lt of Turps - which is brilliant and cheap. Also rub a soft candle down the seams, stitching etc.

And another: 2 litres of turps, 2 litres of hoof oil, 1 litre of MetalX (sp) and much melting. MetalX is available at Mitre 10; it is a wood preservative.

Also, there are commercial mixes available at the hardware store and upholsterers that waterproof canvas. RainX is one, there are others. RainX costs about $70 for 5 litres at Mitre 10, or $25 per liter. There are also smaller containers available. For the initial coat, it takes more than the manufacturer recommends. You need about 1.5 litres to do a 4 foot six cover (not including neck rug) for the initial coat and 500 ml or less for the second coat. Be careful to read the label, some of these will harm synthetic fabrics; it pays to know exactly what your cover is made of.

SAFETY NOTE: turps, fumes of turps, clothes or cloths with turps on, are all highly flammable. If you're adding turps, do it AFTER you heat up/melt everything else and do it AWAY from the heat source. As for the wax, I've had no trouble heating bees wax in a microwave to melting point, and I've had some vegetable oil and calendula and other stuff in there at the same time (we were making lip balm at a science course) so you could either do it in the microwave or use a double boiler method. To use a double boiler, you put one pot of boiling water on the stove, put a smaller pot inside the one with water in it, and put the wax in the smaller pot that is in the water.

A high school science teacher told me that overheated oil in a microwave could explode, so be careful. A fire could cost you more than money.

Turps has a strong smell and properties that even in humans causes headaches and allergic reactions to the skin. After proofing your cover with RainX or other turps-based product air it out thoroughly for at least a few days (takes it that long to dry anyway).
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Are there any marvelous modern leather dressings out there?
Tanners oil darkens, and Coachaline sticks in the grooves of carving and goes waxy. Have they finally invented something to soften stiff leather, keep its nice color, and prevent mould?

A lot of us use "effax" it comes in both and oil and a leather balsam (not so runny) type of mixture which is good on your hands also as contains a lot of avocado oil and lanolin and some beeswax. It works wonders on softening leather. Most saddleries stock it.

My own (FAQ compiler's) personal note: You've got my vote for Effax too. It is made of lanolin, avocado oil and beeswax. The price can vary quite a bit from shop to shop. Snow Seal (from hiking shops) is another good one with more wax in it, won't rot stitching and is good for the topside of the saddle if it doesn't need as much oil as the Effax has. As an additional benefit, Snow Seal waterproofs. (Good to apply some if you know you're heading into a wet weekend) I've used Snow Seal for years and years on my leather hiking boots. It does darken them over time. Just recently I oiled my new saddle with Effax Balsam and Snow Seal and didn't have any trouble with color change. Your mileage may vary!
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Windsucking
Windsucking is caused through boredom, which is why we need to move back a step and see why the horse is bored. Firstly this condition did not exist amongst feral horses according to animal behaviorists. Horses graze for around 16 hours of the day and to put them into a stable and depriving them of oral stimulation we are setting the scene for boredom. It is similar to a caged loin that paces its cage or a wolf that self mutilates its paws. Good stable practices should feed horses in small amounts, at least 6 times a day, with bouts of grazing and exercise. A hay net with small holes in it must be available so that the horse can 'forage' for most of the day. When we buy thoroughbreds to be used as hacks we buy into their previous history of stabling, good or bad. Once this habit is established it is very difficult to stop even when the horse is taken away from that environment and put to pasture. Diversion tactics seem to be reasonably effective like salt licks, small regular feeds, paddock ball, exercise etc. If you are going to deprive the horse of its pleasure from windsucking (collar, electric fencing, etc) you need to compensate it with continual feeding. There has been some work done on allopathic drug therapy for horses with this condition. While St John's Wort is very effective in treating compulsive repetitive behavior in dogs and people some further work needs to be done in this area with respect to horses.

Windsucking is bad because some horses become so addicted to the habit due to the buzz or high (endorphin's) they get from this activity that they may do it at the expense of eating. The ingested air makes them feel satisfied by taking the edge off hunger in some cases and in other cases it can cause colic.

It can be hard to find a place to graze a windsucker or crib biter because they will ruin wooden fence posts in any paddock they are put in. Some people believe that the habit can also be "taught" to other horses and won't let a windsucker in with the regular herd. This may not be true, but that won't make grazing any easier to find for you.
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I'm moving got any web sites where I can look for a house, preferably with room for my horse?
Check out http://www.open2view.com, realenz.co.nz, realestate.co.nz , www.ljhooker.co.nz
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Does the Mare or Stallion determine the sex of the foal?
The sex of the offspring is determined by the sex chromosomes (X or Y) found in the sperm. A normal male offspring will have both an X and a Y chromosome, while the normal female will have two X-chromosomes. Thus the female may only pass on an X chromosome. The male ALWAYS determines the sex of the offspring. He alone has an option of giving an X and producing a female or giving a Y and producing a male.
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My horse has swelling in his jaw, what can this be?
I hesitate to write about this here because there is never a definitive answer as to cause or cure, but it has come up a couple times on the board so I am going to post the responses to the question here. What follows is a string of posts on the topic.

I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me out with a problem that has occurred with two of my horses (one 9yo mare TB/clyd X, and one 10yo gelding TB) where it looks like they have the mumps! Both are puffy around the cheek with swelling going up around the glands to their ears on both sides, which is quite noticeable. There doesn't seem to be any heat coming from the swellings and their temperatures are normal. All this has happened in the last 24hrs. They seem quite happy and bright eyed, and it doesn't seem to be upsetting them in any way. I've isolated them from the other horses just in case. I don't think that it is a dental issue as they had their routine checks at the beginning of winter and I haven't made any changes to their diet. The only thing that comes to mind is possibly an allergic reaction to something (pollen? Pine trees surround us). I have never encountered anything like this before and I have no idea of what is wrong! It would be appreciated heaps if anyone has any ideas or suggestions to stop this mum from worrying!

Responses:
Hi. Your horses don't have goiter by any chance do they? A Gelding I have gets goiter if there isn't iodine added to his water. They are generally caused by an iodine deficiency (some areas do not have enough iodine in the soil) and can easily be treated. I had him two years before the problem came up and have had no problems since. I was very worried at first though! It may pay to get the vet in just on the safe side though because of other serious illnesses it could be. Good luck!

Mm I think there were postings on this a few weeks ago, several people had this occur - I believe it was an allergy to something in the grass and I think putting them in a different paddock helped. Sorry I can't remember any more details.

My mare gets puffy in this area every spring, had her checked out and nothing wrong. She sometimes gets it at other times of the year as well but mostly in spring. Doesn't bother her at all and can go up and down during the day. Vets have put it down to a hay fever type problem.

My TB gets this - it has never harmed him in any way and will be back to normal within a day or two. It seems to be some sort of reaction to the grass in one particular paddock - when he eats it down to the rich grass underneath. I remember there being some sort of herb to prevent their glands swelling - maybe Everdien (Hira labs, whose e-mail address is in the links section under herbs, vitamins and cures somewhere) can help you with that. In the meantime, it's not much of a worry. Opps! I forgot to add, putting them in a different paddock for a while will make sure it doesn't come back straight away, but there is no need to rule out that paddock for them altogether in the future

Do they have any discharge coming out of their noses????...I don't want to cause you any alarm but with runny noses and glands up it could be strangles

Sounds like an inflammation of the parotid gland, which lies between the jaw and the first cervical vertebra and goes all the way up to the ear and behind the masseter muscle in the cheek. An allergy or irritant of some sort triggers this. Grass can trigger a reaction, but it is not known why yet. The horse may also have a fever and go off his feed. Most situations resolve themselves but you could take the horse off grass and/or treat with homoeopathy/herbs if you want. This gland is also affected with strangles so check for this also to be safe.

Sometimes you can irritate this gland as well by too long spent "going on the bit"(flexed) if the just getting into their work. Remember to give breaks in your work for the horse too :-)

It sounds basic, but also check that he doesn't just have a wad of grass in there. Also he could have some sort of gum infection. This was the best guess of a vet that came to see a friend's horse. It ended up resolving itself without any intervention within a few days. Lastly, I read about something once called a guttural pouch (spelling?) infection that horses can get that can make it appear they have swelling near the jaw.

Trumpet Nose:
Trumpet nose usually refers to a swelling that results from a viral infection. It is often accompanied by swelling in the legs. I would think that it would only appear when he was exposed to that particular virus again. With regards to the swelling under your new horse’s jaw, how big is it, where exactly under the jaw (e.g. is it lymph nodes?), it is puffy, hard etc. I had a horse several years ago with permanently enlarged lymph nodes under his jaw from a viral infection. Never bothered him took him to several vets (including Massey) and none of them were bothered by it as it didn't affect the horse at all and removing it may cause immune systems problems. If you are worried, you could get your vet to do a biopsy. If he has had it awhile and it doesn't affect his breathing, health or performance, then I wouldn't worry about it-it’s just cosmetic!

Everdien wrote:
Swollen face. Its cause can be varied but I like to tackle it through the lymph system and with some blood cleansers. Problems with the lymph often manifest itself with swelling around the jaw line. A tea of cleavers with dandelion leaves (replaces potassium lost through cleavers) is a good first line defense. The herbs of choice are fenugreek and violet. To reduce inflammation Devil's Claw (tincture works effectively because it is directly absorbed into the blood stream) and a blend of Evening Primrose and Borage oils to balance prostaglandin production. Borage is the new comer to the animal industry with it being added to propriety dog feeds. Our opinion is that it is better given in drops because the manufacturing process may cause oxidation of some of the components. Certainly the use of rosehips and vitamin C would be recommended.

See Non Specific Skin Conditions (below) for a treatment that can also be used for swelling around the jaw which may have a number of originating causes from pollen allergies to a reaction to horticultural sprays etc.

On non-specific skin conditions and causes/cures:
For unidentified skin conditions (i.e. that are not mud fever or lice or sweet itch) buy some vetadine (available at the vet and probably good tack shops, farm stores) and follow the instructions on the label for mixing with water. Apply as the label instructs. Vetadine does a good job of drying out weepy sores.

This is Everdien of Hira Labs input on the topic of an unidentifiable skin ailment:
You may like to start treating this condition by activating the lymphatic system and stimulating the liver to get rid of toxins internally. Give him a tea of cleavers night and morning for about three days (one handful steeped in half a litre of hot water allow to cool and add to feed. (It acts as a diuretic) Either a tisane (tea) or tincture of chamomile taken internally will sooth irritation. Two tablespoons of fenugreek seed added to feed will stimulate the lymphatic system. Calendula cream or oil will sooth the irritation and help stimulate hair growth. If he is feeling real sore then Devil's Claw will help with that too. A handful of willow leaves and small branches will act as an analgesic. Don't use just before a show because it will test positive.
Incidentally the above treatment can also be used for swelling around the jaw which may have a number of originating causes from pollen allergies to a reaction to horticultural sprays etc.

So there you have it. The combined wisdom of the Board. I wish your horse well; I know how troubling health can be to an owner's heart.
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Cleaning a Geldings Sheath, How To.
http://equisearch.com/care/grooming/eqsavvy386/
Also try loading the following into a search engine like www.google.co.nz and it will get you a lot of good articles: sheath clean horse or even sheath clean.
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Scours/Diarrhea
Scours is dehydrating, runny poos. It can be caused by all sorts of things. Nerves, new feed, excess water intake. "When accompanied by discomfort, colic, straining, squirting or strongly smelling manure, or an elevated body temperature, depression and dehydration with tucking up in the belly, you should seek advice from a vet." (Health care and Common Problems in Horses)
Scours has a number of possible causes but the initial treatment can be used to cover all bases. Firstly you want to stop it by firming up stools and this best done by giving your horse charcoal tablets at x6 the human dose. This acts as a gut cleanser and absorbs excess gas. Another thing to try is kaolin powder which firms up stools but should not be continued for too long because it only masks symptoms. Then by all means try the Ration Plus. It is an excellent product for this sort of problem if your horse won't eat the live yoghurt. At this point you can introduce a number of herbs. The exact one really depends on the diagnosis. If perforation of the gut or worm damage slippery elm is most suitable. Other herbs with an astringent action may include chamomile (a really good stand by for digestive problems and best administered as a tincture at the acute stage), agronomy highly astringent which also stimulates liver. If a low-grade bacterial condition is suspected then garlic and Echinacea is the herb of choice. Other mucilaginous herbs may include marshmallow, and fenugreek. Some horses just need to kick in with bitter herbs like artichoke. Astringent basically is an action that tightens tissue and to some extent dries excess mucus/moisture.
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What is meant by how much "bone weight" a horse has?
Sometimes horse people say things like "She is lightly boned." or "How heavily boned is he?" This is not rude chatter ;)
Weight is based on the horses "bone" i.e. the circumference of their cannon bone just below the knee. Lightweight = 8inches or less, medium 8 - 9 inches, heavyweight 9 inches or more. I have to say in the south island heavyweights are very heavy and in the North Island there aren't many that I have seen that are truly heavyweights.
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My Vet recommended Glucosamine for a Cyst, what is it?
Glucosamine is a naturally occurring amino sugar found in healthy joints and when a joint is injured the natural supply is not enough to keep up the lubricating that it is intended for. That is why we feed GS orally or in the form of joint injections. If there is still heat there is still inflammation so I would keep the horse on the Glucosamine. It may well be that he has to stay on it forever to keep him sound. You could try halving his dosage and seeing if he remains stable and if not increasing it back up again. Feeding Vitamin C in the form of ascorbic acid or rosehips and also magnesium will aid in the absorption of the Glucosamine.
Another thing about the glucosamine is that as a dietary supplement its aim is to continue to keep things healthy within the joint. If you are competing to a reasonable level (probably even novice and above) the impact on joints can be considerable, your horse can only benefit from the supplement, especially if he's already had an injury. If you are finding the price limiting, look around. Judith supplies it at a good price (see somewhere on this FAQ for her address) and there are many feed stores who also do it. It shouldn't cost much to keep them on a regular dose at all. Regarding the cyst, the reason most vets prefer to leave them if they are not posing a problem (especially one on a leg) is that healing on a high movement and high skin tension area can be a nightmare.  If it isn't broke, don't fix it attitude. Normally when removing cysts the amount of 'margin' required to be taken off around them means that there are issues with wound tension, they can be quite hard to close and any movement can open them. Have a good talk to your vet and ask their reason behind wanting to leave it.
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Do you have a link to information on locking stifles?
No! My old link for this has gone pay-only. So look up "locking stifle" on www.google.co.nz for info. from various pages. A lot more web pages are going for money these days. Pity!
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Training Links
Some very interesting sites re: young horses, training on ground, behavior problems, natural horsemanship, floating problems, etc. http://www.equusite.com has a really interesting article on "The Patience Game", leading, lunging, when to start; http://www.naturalhorsesupply.com has articles on round penning, Manners, Anticipation, Bending, Common Sense, Focus and Time to say the least; http://www.horsetalk.co.nz "Loading the Scared Horse";http://www.reisranch.com "Ground School"; http://www.horsemagazine.com "Cavaletti Exercises"; http://www.horsekeeping.com "In Hand Work", "Trailering Your Horse" (all articles by Cherry Hill)
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Can I feed my horse grass clippings? / Colic, what it is.
This is a site well worth reading, Feed Fallacies: http://www.eques.com.au/general/april/fallacies.htm
http://www.petalia.com.au/Templates/StoryTemplate_Process.cfm?specie=Horses&story_no=1283
A good feed fallacies page, i.e. on feeding kelp, horses self medicating The common horseman's advice is that within moments of cutting grass, it begins to ferment. Feeding it to your horse will give it colic, which is abdominal pain. There are a lot of old-fashioned ideas out there that have been disproved lately. Not letting horses drink while hot is another one, by the way. Let them drink, it won't hurt them. Doesn't hurt you, does it?

According to at least one recent (2001) article about feeding myths from a horse magazine (I can't recall the magazine, sorry!) you can feed cut grass with no problems. For a real-life example, my best friend fed her expensive, imported mare only mowed grass while she was pregnant and never had a hint of a problem. The foal is the best looking horse I have ever seen (mind you, the blood lines were impressive which probably had more to do with it than the grass, grin) She said that she never fed the mare more than the horse could eat in one go, though, so that the grass did not have time to begin to rot. And of course you have to be careful there is no oil or other stuff on the grass. One concern I read somewhere point out that the fineness of grass clippings may cause impaction colic. So there you are. Give it a go, a small amount at first to see if all is well.

Colic can have symptoms such as the horse biting at its side, kicking its tummy, or if he's in a lot of pain, rolling around. Colic can be mild to severe. If it is mild, inform your vet. Mild cases may abate on their own.

If it is more than mild, get a vet on site immediately. If it is acute colic, do not allow the horse to roll, do not allow access to food or drink. Walk the horse, or allow it to lie down in a soft place if it wishes.

Well meaning neighbors often feed horses things that are bad for the horse. Tell them gently and kindly it is not good for the horse; it can make him very sick. Tell them they can feed Horsie bread or a carrot or an apple. :)
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What can I use on minor cuts and scrapes?
For cuts requiring less than stitches, Dettol (available from the chemist) is an excellent anti-septic for rinsing cuts. For best results, rinse thoroughly and regularly until the wound scabs over in a healthy fashion. (I.e. twice a day) Raleigh's salve is also an excellent antiseptic in a salve form available from the local Raleigh's rep. You'll have to ask a local community group to find out who your Raleigh rep is. My (FAQ compilers) favorite treatment is to rinse with dettol then pack with Raleigh's. Raleigh's works well on rubs and rope burn too. It's healed some pretty nasty wounds that other treatments failed at, in one case a horse that may have stepped on itself resulting in an angry weeping wound on a pastern that only reacted to a thick application of Raleigh's and a bandage to keep it clean.

Other remedies are as follows:
the pink spray Choloramide, Debrisol, available from vets, it is excellent for minor scratches and seriously infected wounds. Filta Bac is also good, and is zinc based. Calendula cream/lotion is also excellent for cuts, scratches and another minor skin irritation. The Filta Bac is white, but the others have no color to them.
Everdien writes the following on the topic:
Hello Paulina, there are a number of things you can do for minor cuts and scrapes. The two things you want to watch for are infection and the formation of proud flesh (not too likely with minor wounds) Calendula and St John's Wort both have antibiotic and tissue tightening qualities. Calendula increases oxygen levels at the wound site and St John's Wort is quite strongly astringent and acts on nerve endings. We have found that it helps prevent tissue granulation, which may develop into proud flesh. The best first aid herb is yarrow made up into a tincture which can be used to clean the wound then follow up with Calendula and/or St John's wort. If you would like more info on the treatment of injuries you may like to contact us at hiralabs@xtra.co.nz
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Where can I go for Western Riding tips?
Try http://www.westernriding.co.nz for a list of all the Western Riding Clubs in NZ.
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Clipper Blade Sizes
Size 30= 0.25 mm cutting length, 15=1mm, 10=1.5mm, 8.5=2 mm. See article at http://www.eques.com.au/general.html on what to use where. Click on clipping. Lots of other good stuff at this link too.
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Helmet Standards Does your helmet certify with NZPCA?
The only standards that NZPCA will accept:
NZS 8602 medium protection weight (NZ standard)
AS 2063.3 (Aussie standard)
PAS 015 (British)
BSEN 1384 (British/European)
EN 1384 (European)
ASNZS 3838 (Aussie/NZ)
BS 6473 and BS 4472 no longer acceptable'.
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Horse Height Conversion Chart A "hand" is four inches. Every inch after that, up to 3 inches, is shown after a dot or a space. Example, a horse who stands between 14 and 15 hands could be 14 hh, 14.1hh, 14.2hh, 14.3hh or 15 hh. Unfortunately for those of us that think in hands, some bright spark decided to measure them in cm too. Here is a conversion chart.

147.5 cm = 14.2hh
150 cm = 14.3hh
152.5cm = 15hh
155cm = 15.1hh
157.5cm = 15.2hh and so on
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How much and what to Feed My Horse
If you already know the basics and want detailed charts on horse feed, look under this link.

Open the How To Feed page Important! The nutrient content of horse feed chart is also on this pop up page as a link or you can find it at http://homepages.xnet.co.nz/~jhdeeley/nutrient.html
You will have to allow your browser to open the How to Feed page pop up page if it is not set to do so by your security settings. In explorer, click on the bar that says "click here for options" near the top of your browser. Then click "allow blocked content." Remember to change it back when you are done on my feed pages. I wouldn't unblock content on other links from this page but my own pages won't harm you. I'll try to get around to changing this feature to the latest code sometime soon to avoid triggering security features.

If you want an overview or just the basics before we get into the pretty technical stuff above, read the rest of this section of the FAQ first:
Feed Fallacies. These are sites well worth reading to dispel some myths:
http://www.eques.com.au/general/april/fallacies.htm and you may want to look at the parent site which is http://www.eques.com.au it has articles of interest on most topics. Have a look as well at http://www.petalia.com.au/Templates/StoryTemplate_Process.cfm?specie=Horses&story_no=1283 which has some more good myth busters.

"It isn't always necessary to perform a large number of calculations to formulate or evaluate diets...for your horse. Common sense and some basic knowledge can often be as far as you want to go." Massey University College of Science Module Two notes, Introduction to Equine Nutrition and Health.

This next information and the charts in the How to Feed pages are all from the Massey notes, which are notes given to students of the Massey Equine Nutrition course. If you can get hold of these bound notes and readings, I highly recommend them. Although I do not have express permission to use this information, I am using it under Fair Use Law and also because it is commonly available in a multitude of other sources. Also, much of the information in their notes is taken from other sources (books, studies) for inclusion in the Massey notes. Where possible I will include the original source of the information.

First, do not feed horses mixes that are for other animals. Some of them (i.e. pig feed, chicken feed) contain growth hormones etc. that are toxic to horses.

Food is made up of nutrients, some that give the horse energy, others that are vital for normal function. Nutrients can be divided into six different groups: water, carbohydrates, protein, fats, minerals and vitamins.

The most important carbohydrates in a horse's diet are starches, sugars, and the fiber cellulose.
Protein is necessary for the body to produce all of its tissues. Protein may be used for energy.
Fats are necessary to absorb substances which are soluble only in fat like vitamin A; D, E and K. Fats also provide energy and provide nearly 2.5 times more energy than a similar weight of carbohydrate or protein and without the bulk.
Minerals are non-carbon containing (inorganic) elements such as salt, calcium, phosphorus and magnesium. Minerals are classified according to how much are needed by the animals as in micro (meaning small amounts) such as iodine, copper, selenium, molybdenum, manganese, iron, cobalt, zinc and macro (meaning large amounts) such as sodium chloride (common salt), magnesium, potassium, calcium, phosphorus and sulpher . Al are needed in the diet in number of parts per million (ppm or mg/kg)
Vitamins are organic substances found in food and essential in small quantities for growth, health and survival. The absence of one or more vitamins from the diet can cause deficiency diseases.

A lot of people mix up complicated diets for their horses. It may make the human feel better but it isn't necessarily any better for your horse. In fact it may be worse. Your horse evolved to eat grass, not pellets. For your back yard owner and non-intensive rider, grass and hay or silage is all you need to feed your horse, plus a salt lick. Grass and good hay, water and a salt lick provide almost everything he needs, except if the grass is kikuyu, in which case you need to supplement calcium and phosphorus. That's because kikuya and other tropical grasses contain oxalates, which are compounds that can bind up the calcium in the diet so it is not available to the horse. Long term (2-8 months) diets high in oxalates can lead to calcium deficiency diseases. This does not make kikuya a bad grass, as long as you take this into account. Calcium/phosphorus ratios are important in horse feed. You can check around the internet (see links on this page) to see what calcium deficiency does. In most areas of New Zealand, selenium will need to be supplemented too because it is deficient in the soil. Because conditions vary in each area of the country and selenium is very toxic, you will need to ask the vet in your area how much selenium to administer. 10 mg per week is typical. Don't guess! Ask YOUR vet. Too much selenium is lethal. The other thing vets like to commonly check for is copper, as many soils in N.Z are deficient in it. If you have a blood test for selenium and copper you'll know where you stand and your vet can advise on any supplements you may have to give.

Your average horse needs to eat between 1.5 and 3.0% of its bodyweight as dry matter each day. Dry matter is that part of the feed which is not water. For example, a feed contains 10% moisture and 5% protein. Its dry matter content is 90% and it contains 5.55% (5% divided by 0.90) protein in its dry matter.)

That means you can expect a 500kg horse to eat between 7.5 and 15 kg of dry matter each day. This amount will vary for young growing horses, horses in intense work and mares feeding young. A horse on a maintenance diet needs 1.5-2.0% for instance, and a race horse between 2.0 and 3.0%. A weanling needs 2.5-3.5% and a two year old between 2.0 and 2.5%. Weather also has an effect. In cold weather your horse needs to eat more, in summer or spring, less.

Horses in heavy work have somewhat different requirements, because the amount of energy they get from hay and grass, even if they eat steadily all day, may not be enough for the work they are doing. Likewise, they may not be able to regain lost minerals. They require concentrated feed for added energy. They may require somewhere in the region of 56 to 125 grams of salt added to their diet. Too much salt can be unpalatable or even toxic. Electrolyte balance is disturbed in horses that sweat heavily so they may need supplementation. In the wild, horses mainly walk around not doing much but eating, running short distances only if they get a fright. What they eat in the wild is fine for that kind of energy output, but when you add a human on their back and start exercising them, you need to put that energy back in somehow.

For your average backyard horse, however, it is healthier to stick with grass, hay and silage because horses evolved to eat little amounts of fiber over long periods of time. See the Haying FAQ (link on this page) for more information on hay. Look up silage on www.google.co.nz or your favorite search engine, for information on feeding silage to horses. My advice is to steer clear of silage if you can, simply because there are some potential problems with it (rot, mould, yeast, incorrect PH levels (correct is 3.5 to 5), botulism if contaminated by small dead animals, wastage) unless you research it a bit first. If you are going to feed silage, remember that it is 25-35% dry matter, compared to hay which is about 90% dry matter. So you'll need to feed about three pounds of ensiled feed to replace one pound of dry feed. The pro side of silage is that it is highly nutritious and palatable. Horses love the stuff and thrive on it. "Ensiling maintains the feeding value of protein, carbohydrate, carotene and many vitamins better than any other practical method of animal feed preservation. However, since ensiled feed is not sun cured, it is low in vitamin D content." Feeding and Care of the Horse, page 80.

Every horse is an individual and needs to be treated as such. If your horse is healthy looking and is fleshy without being fat, he's ok. If he's fat, slowly (think months, not days) encourage him to loose weight by feeding less or restricting grazing or increasing exercise. If he's thin, increase the amount of grass or hay he is getting, or add a small amount of concentrate, (i.e. one of the commercial horse feeds available) possibly with some Soya oil added to it. Make sure he is not thin because of other causes i.e. teeth or health problems. See the section on what to feed your horse if he is skinny, on this FAQ for more excellent feeding tips for hard keepers.

Minerals need to be balanced in the diet, as excess of one can lead to deficiency in another. Over-supplementation is more likely to be a problem than deficiencies. Adult horses at pasture (and not in hard work) probably don't need mineral supplementation (except for Se). Ca to P ratio is important as previously mentioned. Calcium cannot be absorbed properly if the Potassium/Calcium ratio is incorrect.

Vitamin deficiencies are uncommon under normal feeding situations; however, there are a number of situations in which horses may require supplementation. Horses receiving oral antibiotics for long periods, horses eating high grain/low forage diets, horses eating a lot of old or poor quality hay, horses under stress (i.e. frequent traveling), nervous or hyperactive horses, horses in training or frequent prolonged physical activity, horses that eat poorly, anemic horses. Remember that vitamin A and D in excess can have toxic effects, vitamin. A and E must be provided in feed (and there is usually plenty in green forage), vitamin. D is provided in feed and exposure to sunlight. Other vitamins are synthesized within the horse.

If you really wanted to, you could stop reading right now. You know how much you need to feed your horse in weight, you know you need to feed him grass and/or hay, you know you (probably) need to supplement selenium and that he needs free access to a salt block and you know that if he's on kikuya you also need to supplement calcium and phosphorus. Don't forget the water. Large amounts are necessary to process food properly. Your horse should have access to water at all times.

Keep reading if you want to get more specific information and charts etc. Click on the link below and it will open a new browser window with the remaining feed info on it. You will have to allow your browser to do this if it is not set to do so by your security settings. In explorer, click on the bar that says "click here for options" near the top of your browser. Then click "allow blocked content." Remember to change it back when you are done on my feed pages. I wouldn't unblock content on other links from this page but my own pages won't harm you. I'll try to get around to changing this feature to the latest code sometime soon to avoid triggering security features.

Open the How To Feed page Important! The nutrient content of horse feed chart is also on this pop up page as a link or you can find it at http://homepages.xnet.co.nz/~jhdeeley/nutrient.html

Worth a look is http://www.ker.com/library/index.asp In the search box try words like endurance to get articles on feeding endurance horses. Or minerals, selenium and other feed-based search terms. Note you have to push the "go" button, unlike other sites where you can just hit your return button.

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Guide to Safe Towing and Floats
Don't become a towing statistic! I know first hand what can happen when you put your beloved furry pal into an unsafe float, even if others have used it for years.

Regulations on towing have changed just recently (Dec. 2001). Look on the LTSA website for more info. http://www.ltsa.govt.nz, type 'brakes' in the search field, the first three links have screeds of info.

For a comprehensive site explaining all aspects of transporting horses by float, there are sections on the towing vehicle, tow bars and couplings, the float, loading the horse, safety tips and much more. The Guide can be found at Safe Towing Link on cyberhorse

For some local help if you are looking for somebody to check out a truck and body in the North Island, this is a service that has a good reputation on Horse Talk. They are a manufacturer of horse trucks, horse floats and trailers and will give you an independent report on any vehicle that you may wish to purchase. They can also advise on and offer assistance with alterations or repairs needed. They frequent the board and often offer valuable advice on all things to do with floats etc. Jill and Mike are their names; I hope I got that right! Contact them at mike@equestria.co.nz I'm hoping these guys will get their web site done soon; when they do I'll put a link on here for you. Tell them you heard about them here. :)
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Where to buy and sell horse gear etc. online
My favorite site (and a popular one amongst other Horse Talk readers) is trademe
Then there is http://www.nzhorses.co.nz/index2.htm
There are a few more out there, a search engine should help you find them.
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Worming and Drenches
Drenches are really confusing, eh! To summarize - There are only 3 drench families - White (or BZ), Clear (Levamizole) or Endectocide (ivomectin, avermectin etc). Swapping active ingredients within a family will do nothing for the development of drench resistance in your worm population. You must change families to have any effect. Do this annually - i.e. drench with a white drench for a year and then change to a mectin, then back to white etc. I don't think there are any Clear drenches registered for horses. The problem comes with white drenches in that they don't do bots - so give a mectin dose in autumn once the bot flies have gone to clean them out for winter - otherwise stick to the rotation. The only thing that will kill tapeworm is praziquantal so if you use a mectin + praziquantal your "cleanout" drench will set them up well for winter. Otherwise, stick to the rotation. There's some debate even now as to whether tapeworms have any real effect on mature horses at all, assuming they have plenty of feed, as all they do is float around in the gut and absorb nutrients. They don't migrate, they don't burrow, they don't block (unless they're huge and there are loads of them) so an annual cleanout should be fine. Remember, if you're collecting dung every day, cross graze with ruminants (cattle/sheep/goats), rotate and rest pastures for goodly lengths of time (2 - 3 months) you'll most likely only need 2 to 4 drenches per year. If that. If you aren't doing this kind of maintenance then you will need to drench more often. If in doubt do an egg count or discuss a drenching plan with your vet. Thanks to Lynn, Auckland North Shore for most of this paragraph.
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Where can I find some quality jodhpurs?
New Zealand Made Jods Jods made in NZ; Many people on Horse Talk recommend them. Prices seem very fair. See the web site for details.

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Horse Related Links

Saddle Fitting
Make sure your saddle FITS. For your sake and your horses. You can cause unnecessary pain and behavior problems with an ill fitting saddle. Anthea on the board is a helpful person to ask for help in this area.
http://www.saddleworld.co.uk/fitting_article.htm A very good four part article with pictures and good advice.
www.saddle-fitting.com An excellent presentation including wither tracing, muscle groups and more. Needs flash.
Saddle Fitting Report An excellent guide to saddle fitting, with pictures.
Horsetalk Saddle Fitting Article
Biomech Saddling for an article on saddle placement.
http://www.icelandichorses.co.uk/saddle_fit.htm for good pictures of a tree on the back of a horse which fits, then the same tree with a single pad underneath which causes bad fit, also shows what happens when you raise the back of the saddle artificially to "balance" it, among other good points. See also http://www.icelandichorses.co.uk/Trapezius.htm
http://www.saddlefitter.com/
Or Saddle Fit and
There is a good little book I highly recommend on saddle fit, that has pictures of wasted backs, over stuffed saddles, uneven saddles, saddle trees that do and don't fit etc. and you can either order from the mail order horse book store in the back of NZ Horse and Pony. The book is Allen Photographic Guides (Guide #15) - Saddle Fitting, by Kay Humphries, ISBN0-85131-708-1 it costs about $25. There are some other great books on horses, teeth, training and tack (including tack repair) in the same series too, check out the adverts in the back of NZ Horse and Pony for the full list. You can also buy it and the book The Saddle In Theory and Practice from Equestria Books, Mike and Jill Nelson, phone 64 9 294 8233 or Fax 64 9 294 8293. The saddle in theory and Practice is a history of saddle making and is very relevant to the understanding of saddle fitting.
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Vitamins, Minerals and Herbs
Intended as a reference only, always administer anything only with the advice of a vet. Vitamins, Minerals and Herbal Remedies Check this link for an alphabetized list of minerals and vitamins as well as good links to further, in depth reading on the topic.

There is a very good article titled: Selenium - How Important Is It? at http://www.ker.com/library/index.asp Type in selenium for this and other good articles. There is an article re: Vitamin E as well. Search for Vitamin E. For more on selenium with an NZ twist also try http://www.horsetalk.co.nz/health-index.shtml

A few more regarding selenium: www.elementsofhealth.com/selenium.html Selenium - mainly for humans, but good all round information about selenium. ohioline.osu.edu/sc167/sc167_03.html Selenium poisoning in livestock and horses, pretty old but good. About a quarter of a way down for horses. www.skeptics.com.au/features/weird/media/mw-selenium.htm Was selenium the cause of the defeat of Custer at the Battle of Little Bighorn? Apparently his horses had grazed on selenium high grass that may have given them alkali disease (selenium poisoning)

Also, we are fortunate to have good places in NZ to get herbal products for horses, such as Hira Labs. They make supplements for things such as bad feet, general health or hyper excitability. If you want to find out more either ring them evenings 06 34 50 737 or e-mail hiralabs@xtra.co.nz Everdien van Eerten also frequents the Board and may reply if you post a question there. She has a ton of useful advice and always gives it fully and freely on the board.

Also try Brookby Herbs who also have herbal remedies for horses. Some people have had good results with their products.

Another NZ stockist of herbal remedies is James Hart, a principal of Equine Herbals which manufactures and distributes a range of herbal products specially designed for horses. Mr. Hart writes for Horse and Pony magazine and you've probably read his articles. Equine Herbals is based in Cambridge, New Zealand and can be contacted for advice or further information on 07 827 3551. The web site is http://www.equineherbals.co.nz/ To email James click here. herbs@hnpl.net

Essential FAQ's
This one isn't a FAQ, but it has articles on everything from saddle fit to..well...everything! http://www.manepoints.com/
See Jorene's "Sacking out a horse" at http://www.ceoates.com/info/articles.html
Essential FAQ's for all aspects of horses:
Rec.Equestrian FAQ's This page also includes links to the excellent Pasture FAQ and Haying FAQ .
You can also go to http://www.lifestyleblock.co.nz for further tips on pasture management and other things. How to Tie a Quick Release Knot (instructions and pictures) an excellent knot, no-one should ever tie a horse to anything without a knot such as this. http://tarlton.law.utexas.edu/dawson/articles/knot.htm
The NZ stud book online is at NZ studbook

Headshaking Articles (cause and cure)
Speak to your vet about this. There are many causes. One I've heard just recently is Equine Herpes. Equine Herpes results in pustules in the nose, and watery eyes and can be tested for by the vet. The headshaking results from irritation of the pustules. Many horses have herpes but do not exhibit symptoms and it causes no problems. Other horses have it and the symptoms. It can be cured over a course of treatment, but treatment can be expensive. I (FAQ compiler) had an opportunity to view a horse with Equine Herpes and you could see the pustules in the nose. They look like watery blisters. They remind me a lot of cold sores on people, really.

Here is an article on headshaking: http://www.usask.ca/wcvm/herdmed/applied-ethology/behaviourproblems/headshake.html
This next article puts forward the hypothesis that some cases are caused by pustules, plus some help to alleviate the causes. By James Hart. Posted with the author's permission. Headshaking Article
http://www.equiworld.net/uk/horsecare/veterinary/headshaking/ Also see http://www.horsetalk.co.nz/health-index.shtml Between these articles and speaking to your vet about Equine Herpes, you'll pretty much become an expert.

Meanwhile, here is a bit more info. on Equine Herpes:
Equine herpe virus often causes headshaking in horses and it is contagious. I certainly would not want a horse with the virus and she may find grazing hard to find. Here are a couple of articles: http://www.equinevetnet.com/veterinarian/sportsmed/ehv.html AND http://www.antecint.co.uk/main/herpesvi.htm The equine herpes virus is just one of a number of triggers that can cause headshaking syndrome. It seems to sensitise nasal and ear passages often making horses sensitive to light, changes of temperature etc. It is contagious and while an herb like Echinacea is an excellent preventative it is not regarded as the best treatment once the allergy-type reaction has established itself. There are creams that can be applied to the nasal passages, which act on the nerve endings and act as anti-viral substances as well as soothing the irritated mucus membrane. This condition needs to be treated using a bulleted approach. There is no quick fix for this and it does take some dedication to overcome it.

Farrier and Vet
These three are great because you can ask questions about feet and health and get professional advice.
http://www.katyforge.com
http://www.ruralheritage.com/ Follow the links to the virtual vet and virtual farrier.
http://www.horseshoes.com/The Farrier and Hoofcare Resource Center Farriers Helping Horse Owners Bulletin Boards
Here's a good one for various articles of interest: www.horseshoes.com
Here's a great one about tetanus Tetanus Facts
I HIGHLY recommend this next link. For misc. horse health and other information www.thoroughbredtimes.com-horse health can't be beat. Try under "skin" for rope burn, rainscald, ringworm and other problems. Check out the other links for just about anything you could want to know about horses. A thoroughly informative collection of articles. This kind of page makes the internet great.
For a good NZ site on just about every topic have a look at http://www.vetservice.co.nz/site/database.php?post_animal_category_id=3

Conformation
Excellent FAQ link to all aspects of conformation, with pictures- http://www.horseinfo.com/info/faqs/faqconformationindex.html
equipodiatry.com, Hind Limb Interference www.equipodiatry.com/hindlimb.htm
Equine legs: Understanding hind limb interference www.manepoints.com You have to register for this one but it is free. Has tons of other info too.
A horse skeleton: http://www.arch.cam.ac.uk/~ml12/project/imageHorseSkeleton.html
Agripedia | Horse Judging http://www.ca.uky.edu/agripedia/agmania/horse/
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Poems for Lost Companions
Lost Companion Poems Poetry for our lost equines. Email me others if you want them added.

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About the FAQ. You may link to this FAQ. You may mail, post or otherwise distribute this FAQ freely as long as it is distributed in its entirety including this information, and you do not otherwise alter the FAQ. You may not post the FAQ in any other public forum including personal web pages without express permission, but links to the FAQ are welcome and no permission is needed to do this.

This FAQ is being compiled by JD.
You can email me at: awaythrown at gmail dot com. Sorry, I have to put it like this to avoid spam mail by email trawlers. I like to get mail.

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The counter I had added on April 10 2001 ended on April 5 2003 had a total of 6601 visitors. Since then it has ceased to function, so if you are curious to see the latest total, have a look at the tracker one below by clicking on the square. It was added on 5 October 2001.

I have updated the counter again. Previous stats were:
Counting since: 5 October 2001
Current report:21 Sep 2007
Unique Visitors 28906
Visits incl. Reloads 34618
Grand total of unique visitors to date (21 Sept. 07)=35507

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